Tag Archives: Portland Labrewatory

You’ll Want to Tarry at Jerry’s

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Welcome back to Thebeerchaser. If you are seeing this post through an e-mail, please visit the blog by clicking on the title at the top to see all of the photos and so the narrative is not clipped or shortened.(External photo attribution at the end of the post) 

The above photo shows what one sees walking in the front door of Jerry’s Tavern and gives a good idea of what to expect inside. Those who haven’t experienced this great dive bar in the Northwest Industrial District of Portland, might wonder how a bar that’s been opened for only about eighteen months became “World Famous.”

But those who know owner Jared “Jerry” Benedetto and his wife, Lauren, and followed him when he opened Jerry’s Pizza (as a hobby) and talked about his future dream would not be surprised.  Besides, the description on the door about global notability doesn’t mention a timeline. (#1)

Jerry – a guy who pursues his dreams

One of my good friends who follows Thebeerchaser wondered about my tendency to write about a lot of stuff besides just bars and breweries. He asked if I had toned down my quest to visit new watering holes.

I pointed out my recent post about my newest discovery – Top of the Hill Tavern and my list of favorite dives in that post and assured him that my journey would continue. I then responded that after writing boring memos on legal management for 40+ years, the opportunity to address a broad spectrum of topics was compelling.

As an aside, my brother-in-law, Dave Booher, who has been a frequent Beerchasing companion, just sent me an article entitled, “The Best Dive in Every State.” Having been to about 435 watering holes in the last fourteen years including about 200 throughout the US, I devoured the piece with enthusiasm.

I then sheepishly told him that I’d only been to one on the list – Portland’s Reel M Inn Tavern – a unique spot known primarily for its roasted chicken and jo jo’s, but not for its dive bar trappings. (I then asked Dave if was ready for a road trip….)

Why Jerry’s?

Well, let’s start with just the ambiance of this small (approximately 750 square feet) space, which is filled with Green Bay Packer (Jerry), Chicago Bears (Lauren), Milwaukee Bucks, Chicago Blackhawk, Milwaukee Brewer and Wisconsin Badger (where Lauren got both her BA and MBA) pennants and gear. And it’s not store-bought stuff – most of it is from Jerry’s personal collection.

You’ll see photos of regulars, old beer signs (especially Hamm’s and Miller), an iced bucket of Miller High Life in bottles, untapped kegs sitting on a table and multiple TVs with games (generally not being watched except for Packer and Bear contests), Christmas lights which stay up all year and ……well, you get the picture. (#2 – #3)

In fact, Jerry’s brought back memories of one of my top-five dives in Portland I visited in 2012 – the Ship Tavern. (The Ship is about the same size, a Chicago Bears and Cubs bar, has sawdust on the floor and the front exterior is unforgettable.)

I learned about Jerry’s from my son-in-law, Ryan Keene and his dad, Ron, who both have offices nearby. Since the last time the three of us had Beerchased was in 2017 at the Labrewatory, we were long past due. (This creative enterprise was one of the casualties of the pandemic and closed permanently in 2020.)

We decided to meet for lunch which allows me to talk about another great feature of the bar – the food – a limited menu because of the small kitchen, but we loved it and it gets great reviews.

The prices are also surprisingly low – where can you get a cheeseburger for only $8, a hot dog with grilled onions for $5 or three tacos for $10? The sides are also dive bargains – chips ($1), fries ($2), chili ($3) or cheese curds ($4).

Ron and I had an outstanding meatloaf sandwich for only $10. Ryan dug in on the wings (6 for $11) and we shared their cheese curds with ranch dressing – a Midwestern tradition. (#4)

Great in a sandwich
A Midwest tradition

I’d never seen a meatloaf sandwich in a dive bar, but given Jerry’s Midwest focus, I assumed the inclusion of meatloaf in the menu was because some guy in Racine, Wisconsin created it in the 19th century.

But, in an effort to enlighten you, here’s what I discovered:

“The concept of meatloaf dates back to ancient times, with evidence of similar dishes found in various cultures around the world. One of the earliest recorded recipes for a meatloaf-like dish comes from ancient Rome, where a dish called ‘patina’ was served. Patina was a mixture of ground meat, vegetables, and spices, baked in a pie crust.” (Tastefood.com)

The Drinks

I had a sample of the Stevens Point Lager – a great midwestern beer and they have a reasonable tap list, but the flagship beer at Jerry’s is my favorite – Miller High Life in a bottle – the Champagne of Bottled Beer – born in Milwaukee in 1903 and flavored with Pacific Northwest hops. (See this article from Vinepair.com for the interesting story on the slogan.)

According to the personable Bar Manager, Ranessa Williamson-Callen – a Wisconsin native – they went through forty cases during the previous weekend.

Most dive bar aficionados would not hit their favorite establishment for a cocktail, but that’s again where Jerry’s breaks the mold. You can get a quality margarita, old fashioned, seven & seven, white Russian or Tom Collins. 

What will bring me back, however, is the chance to have one of Ranessa’s Bloody Mary’s – also to meet Jerry in person. I’m relying on a Spring 2025 article in Portland Monthly Magazine (I would suggest this quality magazine has probably not written up a dive bar previously.)

“But the can’t-miss star here is Williamson-Callen’s impressive Bloody Mary: a 20-ingredient mix, lager back, and a skewer of summer sausage, Muenster, pickled onions, olives, and a whole pepperoncini. It’s the best Bloody Mary I’ve ever personally consumed in Portland, full stop, and an emblem of the perfected-classics ethos that guides Jerry’s Tavern.”  (#5)

Fully loaded – best in Portland

Now besides beer and great cocktails, those looking for a mellow option can choose from several Jello-shots ($2) including strawberry, lemon or Malort.- a Chicago favorite.  And Ranessa, spent most of the time during our lunch working on preparing pudding shots ($5) (pumpkin spice) from scratch for the rest of October.

She has a delightful personality and we chatted while she worked on making the pudding.  (Fortunately, the television you see below with Stephen A. Smith pontificating was muted.) (#6)

The Other Stuff

Jerry’s has a great “juke box” with mostly country-western tunes on the “most played” list although it included numbers by Creed, 3 Doors Down and Sean Kingston (who will have time to write more songs while serving his three-year prison sentence). Surprisingly there were no selections by Meat Loaf.

There is an expansive patio immediately adjacent which also sees a lot of Miller downed on good weather days.

In short, Jerry’s Tavern is a wonderful dive bar and I will definitely return to meet Jerry and Lauren personally as well as downing one of Ranessa’s Bloody Mary’s. The following two reviews (and they are almost all positive) may help convince you that Jerry’s will, in fact, become “World Famous.”

“Jerry’s isn’t just a bar. It’s a cathedral of character…The man himself, Jerry, is behind the bar, slinging drinks like he was born for this. He’s part bartender, part therapist, part shaman. He could be my dad if he wanted to, but this morning he feels like my brother–the kind who’d bail you out of jail without asking questions.” (Yelp 12/1/24)

“This place looks like it’s been plucked directly from the Midwest and dropped in Portland’s NW Industrial area. It also looks like it’s been here for years, not days. It feels cozy and familiar without trying too hard. I have been following Jerry’s journey for the past few years.”  (Restaurant Guru – 2024) (#7)

Jerry’s dream was to not just to open a bar:

“…but a community space in the tradition of a great Midwestern bar. Or, as Benedetto puts it, ‘a place to gather when times are good, when times are bad, or any time for that matter.’ ”   (Oregon Live)  (Photo courtesy of Michael Novak/Portland Monthly magazine.)

He’s a dreamer.

So far, so good, Jerry and Lauren!

Cheers

External Photo Attribution

#1. Linked in logo – (https://www.linkedin.com/in/jared-jerry-benedetto-5a69a4180/).

#2. Yelp Reviews (https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/jerry-s-tavern-portland?select=snWOH0M6WDbb9sp0dsHFhg)  miller lite

#3. Yelp Reviews (https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/jerry-s-tavern-portland?select=Ngyf0LVcTCzgPXlREDj8hg).

#4. #Wikimedia Commons (File:Meatloaf on white plate.jpg – Wikimedia Commons) This file is made available under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication. Author: Roundhere44 – 7 March 2016. 

#5. Public Domain – Wikimedia Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bloody_Mary_2.jpg) L licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license.  Author: goblinbox https://www.flickr.com/people/25977089@N00) – 15 March 2014.

#6. Yelp Reviews ((https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/jerry-s-tavern-portland?select=h_PosqSFpag7lxZ7-JANZQ).

#7. Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10105147031135361&set=pb.22016580.-2207520000&type=3).

#8.  Portland Monthly (https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/2025/01/jerrys-tavern-restaurant-bar-review). Courtesy of Michael Novak/Portland Monthly magazine.

Stir Things Up at the Labrewatory

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Tucked away on NE Russell Street is a small, relatively young brewery and taproom.  It’s in the same area as some favorite past watering holes on Thebeerchaser’s Tour of Bars, Taverns and Pubs commenced in 2011 – the historic White Eagle Saloon, Prost and The Rambler are just a few. (Click on the links to see the reviews)

Although the Labrewatory is typical of many small breweries – a large garage door that can be opened in good weather – the venue is more than a cool, fifty-seat taproom.  t’s actually a brewing experiment – an idea generated in late 2015 by its head brewer, Charlie Johnson.  And it gets some good reviews including being selected by Travel Portland as one of “Portland’s Best New Breweries in 2015:”

“A new project by Portland Kettle Works (a company that crafts equipment for many local breweries), this cutting-edge brew lab is the first of its kind in the city. Rather than employing its own brewers, The Labrewatory serves as a testing ground for sudsy new experiments from creative minds all over the country.”

Laura, Ryan and friend Kenzie Larson at 2014 Stamtisch Beerchasing

The idea to visit The Labrewatory (hereafter LB) was my son-in-law’s, Ryan Keene.  He and wife, Laura, are veteran Beerchasers, having been on several expeditions before their recent September marriage last year.  These included Stamtisch, Quimby’s and MadSon’s Pub.  (To see Thebeerchaser reviews of these watering holes, click on the link over their names.)

Ryan and Laura debating on the LB beer choice

 

 

 

It was a nice Father’s Day gift to me and Ryan’s dad, Ron, who along with Janet Williams, my wonderful Beerchasing spouse joined our group.  The five of us enjoyed both the beer and the venue.

This was the first Beerchasing expedition for Ron who grew up in Spokane and has been in Portland close to 35 years.  He works for XPO Logistics as a business analyst in IT working on pricing projects. Ryan, who is a an expert runner and excellent athlete, inherited much of his athletic talent from his dad although Ron asserts that “I owned Ryan on the Ping Pong table until he was 12.”

Charlie Johnson, the aforementioned head brewer, has both a masters degree in microbiology and a doctorate in chemical engineering and perhaps considerably more vision in his high school chemistry class than I did.

Dmitri wore a funny hat and drank vodka rather than beer……

Most of us just tried to understand the logic as to why Iron was abbreviated Fe (Atomic # 26) while Iridium was Ir (Atomic #77) on the Periodic Table of Elements and what Russian chemist Dmitri Mendeleev was trying to prove when he created it.

The LB has a very upscale and attractive interior:

“The sparse, wood-grained brewpub signals its experimental nature with lab-themed decor: Light fixtures look like diagrams of the atom, and the back wall sports a series of beakers and Erlenmeyer flasks arranged on shelves like shoes at Nordstrom.”  Willamette Week Bar Review (12/30/15)

The LB is a great place to taste beers from smaller breweries with the four guest taps hosting Freemont, Sierra Nevada and Cascade Lakes breweries when we were there.  But you can also experiment with BL’s own innovative beers with ten on tap.

Ryan and Ron try a $12 sampler with six different beers.

We tried two of their samplers and were able, with the six beers on each tray, to try most of the options.

And the samplers are reasonably priced at $12 for six four-ounce pours.  Our two favorites were the BL Falcon IPA and the Cascade Lakes Brewing’s Salted Caramel Porter.   BL’s Yuzu Mimosa (Kettle Soured Golden Ale) and Gose in Your Mouth both had plenty of pucker power!

Given their business model, it’s understandable while LB chose not to provide food service – at least not right away – but that does not seem to be a problem.  Multiple parties were ordering food from Tamale Boy, right next door and the offerings (which they will deliver to the Labrewatory when ready) looked very good i.e. reasonable prices and expansive menu – while also getting stellar review in social media.  For example, this 6/21/17 review on Yelp.  

Tamale Boy provides great food options

The quality of tamale goes beyond just authentic. A single tamale is $5 but is almost double the size of tamales I’ve eaten in the past. It is plump and avoids being dry. Wrapped in a freshly steamed leaf, you can tell care went into its production…..The salsa that accompanied the had a great tang, on the spicy side with fresh chunks of cilantro and tomato- excellent!

Delicious, made to order, fresh and full of flavor! Qué fantastico. Super fun eating experience. You can sit (if w/kids), in between the store and the brewery, and they will serve you on your wine barrel.   (Yelp 1/8/17)

Where the innovative brewing takes place….

And the LB deserves credit for their enteprenaurial spirit and innovativeness.  For example, in January of 2016, they released a crowd-sourced beer brew – the @PDXBottleshare IPA...

What’s that?  Well read the description from their website:

“The beer was brewed during the December 2015 @PDXBottleShare event held in our taproom. Participants brought in a bottle of beer to share…and a bag of hops to contribute to the brew.

Nearly 40 people showed up to the event at Labrewatory, bringing in 50 bottles of beer and 23 different hops for the event brew!… For the IPA, Charlie used all of the hop additions in the mash and during fermentation- none in in the boil. He used a very low mash temperature and used traditional German mashing schedule to keep the beer dry, and then the beer was fermented with our house yeast strain from Imperial Organic.”

And the creativity is also reflected in their activities.  In six years of Beerchasing, I have not seen another combination of yoga and beer similar to what goes on once each month:

Monday nights are Yoga + Beer nights in Portland! The last Monday of each month is our class at Labrewatory…..After class we roll up our mats, spread out the tables and enjoy pints of their most recent (and tasty!) concoctions. This detox + retox class, led by Yoga + Beer instructor, Jana Bedard, is an all-levels flow yoga class. After class, yogis are invited to stay to enjoy a delicious beer!  

Yoga and Beer on the last Monday night of each month.

The cost is $20 for the yoga class and a pint or $15 just for the yoga.  (They didn’t offer a beer-only option for somebody who wanted to come and observe the class and just drink while they were inspired by those more motivated to stay in shape.)

There are other interesting stories and perhaps Charlie’s imagination got a little overzealous for one of his first creations.

Loligo vulgaris = squid. Supplied the ink for one of Charlie’s first beers

“…..It’s not too often that a brewer gets so much creative freedom to make beer. Then you get to ask yourself, ‘how far can you push the limits’?”   A cherry Gose brined with squid ink. Yes, squid ink. The ink will act as the salty agent in the beer and give an enticing dark color.”   11 November http://labrewatory.com/meet-our-first-brewer/  

Then there was another one based on an idea by a fellow brewer as documented in New School Beer.com: http://www.newschoolbeer.com/2015/12/the-labrewatory-is-now-brewing-up-strange-brews.html

“This beer was still clearing up in the tank but poured a milky yellow and is spiced with lemongrass, coconut milk, Thai chilies and fish sauce. It wasn’t half bad, though, and I think will get better after clearing up and getting some carbonation.”

No need to follow the steps of Pierre and Marie Curie when brewing….

Perhaps those experiments go beyond the cutting edge and maybe it’s a good thing Charlie got his PhD in chemical and not nuclear engineering.  (He might decide to do some brewing with Radium – that’s Ra and atomic number 88 in the Periodic Table.)  While I have no problem with brewing creativity, I don’t want to have to use a Geiger counter when having a brewski…..

Check out the Labrewatory.  You will enjoy it and there are a lot of other good bars nearby if you want to make it an evening.

Labrewatory        

670 N. Russell Street