(Welcome back to Thebeerchaser. If you are seeing this post through an e-mail, please visit the blog by clicking on the title above to see all of the photos and so the narrative is not clipped or shortened.)
In Part I, I talked about the first two days of this five-day road trip which ended up at about 1,200 miles. We traveled from Portland to Lassen Volcanic National Park and then west through the beautiful Trinity Alps to Eureka and up the coast on Highway 101 through the Redwoods with overnight stays in Arcata, CA and Bandon, OR.
Of course, we hit a few good breweries and bars along the way.
1,200 miles through beautiful and varied scenery
After the road trip, we spent the final three days at the beach in Lincoln City on the Central Oregon Coast before returning home. We reveled in the scenery of Northern California and the Oregon Coast while also visiting and revisiting some excellent watering holes.
Although we usually listen to music on road trips except for the fascinating Serial Podcast (“The Case Against Adnan Syed”) on a road trip in the Southwest three years ago, we greatly enjoyed listening to Rachel Held Evans’ audio book – “Searching for Sunday Loving Leaving & Finding the Church”.
It’s an excellent non-fiction choice recommended by Lisa, our older daughter, which made the New York Times bestseller non-fiction paperback list.
Evans was an American Christian columnist, blogger and author, who tragically died in 2019 at the age of 39 after an allergic reaction to a medication for an infection. Her book was thought-provoking and worthwhile. Her legacy, as stated by a contributor to The Atlantic is:
“…..part of a vanguard of progressive-Christian women who fought to change the way Christianity is taught and perceived in the United States….(based on) her unwillingness to cede ownership of Christianity to its traditional conservative-male stewards’ and that her ‘very public, vulnerable exploration of a faith forged in doubt empowered a ragtag band of writers, pastors, and teachers to claim their rightful place as Christians.” (Wikipedia)
# (External photo attribution at end of the post #1 – #2)
From Lassen National Park to Eureka
After a wonderful stay at Highlands Ranch Resort just outside the Park which I relate in Part I, we drove west to Red Bluff, CA and then followed a winding and steep, albeit beautiful, highway (CA-36) through the Trinity Alps to Eureka on the California Coast.
On a future trip we hope to visit this expansive Wilderness – at 525,627-acres, the second largest in California, with over fifty alpine lakes – when the impacts of recent wildfires are not of the same magnitude. From August to mid-November, 2021, it was one of the California Wildernesses closed to the public because of multiple wildfires. (#3 – #5)
Driving Up the Coast
In the summer of 2017, we drove down the Oregon Coast to the Redwoods and stayed one night in Arcata, California. It was a hopping little berg – established in 1860 with a current population of about 20,000.
Well, the pandemic has evidently and understandably been rough – the same is true of Portland. And perhaps our memories were a little bit rosy, but Arcata was not really the same. The Plaza was not very clean and there was a lot of loitering. The shops were non-descript and the downtown area lacked “energy.”
While the Hotel Arcata, (shown below) opened in 1915, was interesting, it did not compare favorably to similar vintage hotels where I stayed in Montana (#6 – #7)
That said, we returned to the Redwood Curtain Brewery – still a “hot spot” five years later – and Janet and I each had a pint of their wonderful Sticky Fingers IPA. Later, just walking around town, we discovered a slightly unusual place to have dinner and a beer – but Slice of Humboldt Pie was a marvelous choice.
When Janet suggested it, I shuddered – harkening back to memories of Swanson’s Chicken Pot Pies when we were kids; however, the chicken pot pie ($7.50) was the best meal on the trip – and a Trinity County Brewing Golden Smash Ale to accompany it was perfect.
But wait — I haven’t told you about desert. The apple pie alamode ($10.00) made me beg Janet to return for breakfast or at least argue that “Slice” can be pluralized. Instead, we had breakfast the next morning at the quaint Big Blue Cafe where the staff was friendly and the pancakes to savor.
Dinner and breakfast made us leave Arcata with better feelings than the afternoon before. (#8 – #9)
Through the Redwoods
Our time was somewhat limited, but we wanted to take a short hike through at least part of majestic trees, so we stopped at the Visitors’ Center in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park and they were very helpful.
As a result, we took a fairly rough seven-mile gravel road where we were glad that we had our Subaru Cross-trek – the destination Fern Canyon. The Ranger told us that during the summer one has to apply for a permit to make the trip up to eight weeks in advance.
“A level trail of about one mile follows Home Creek as it courses through the forest. This modest stream has over the eons carved a 50 to 80 foot deep canyon through the rich sedimentary soils. The canyon walls sprout an amazing variety of luxuriant ferns and other moisture-loving plants. On a sunny day, thousands of tiny drops of moisture make the canyon walls sparkle.
We definitely got our shoes wet, but it was a stunningly beautiful canyon.
We followed the experience by leaving 101 for a diversion up the ten-mile Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway. While a guy named “Newton” may not have been popular with the A-crowd in high school, he had vision and he:
“……was instrumental in the 20th century for securing hundreds of thousands of acres as parklands.”
Fortunately, we did not come across any aggressive elk – either the largest species in the deer family or members of the fraternal order who had been drinking and were rowdy.
A Bandon Hope…..
On our 2017 Coast trip, we really enjoyed our stay in Bandon (population 3,100) on the Oregon Coast near the California border (90 miles).
We stayed at the Bandon Inn, a classic older motel, but well-maintained, has a great breakfast and where virtually every room overlooks the Coquille River reaching into the Pacific. We watched whales surfacing from our balcony. The Inn overlooks Old Town.
On that visit we also discovered a wonderful bar – the Broken Anchor Bar and Grill and had a long conversation with Jessica Neal, the personable and entrepreneurial owner. We then had a beer at the Bandon Brewing Company, which had opened the day before. We could walk to both from our room at the Bandon Inn. ( (#10 – #11)
Hoping to be able to see her again, I told her by phone when we were going to be in town. She was leaving the next day for a week in Mexico, but she kindly took a break from packing and came in. It was obvious when catching up with her over drinks that she has used her work ethic and business instincts to adapt and work through the challenges of the pandemic.
Jessica took a risk a little over six years ago, opening the Broken Anchor after the former bar failed. We found out chatting in 2017 that she is a Minnesotan, who after college and getting her teaching certification, started working in restaurants and bars after moving to Oregon. (According to the reviews, she knows how to make an outstanding cocktail).
She had worked at two great Portland bars previously reviewed by Thebeerchaser – Crackerjacks Pub and the Dixie Tavern. We were sorry to hear that shortly after our first visit, she ran into a few strokes of bad luck with both a fire which destroyed her liquor inventory and her walk-in freezer malfunctioning – the latter resulting in a significant loss not covered by insurance.
She has since changed her menu and entertainment options, developed a loyal Bandon clientele and hired and retained good staff. We were there at a weekday Happy Hour and the place was filled with an energetic crowd.
And Rylee, pictured above, the Anchor’s “mixologist,” made the best Bloody Mary I’ve had in years. The social media reviews are overwhelmingly positive as exemplified by these two excerpts:
3/5/22 Yelp – “This is apparently THE place to be in Bandon after 8pm (and in reality one of the few places open “late”). We got into town around 6:30 and spent about an hour getting settled at Bandon Inn….We’re in town for 4 more nights so we may just end up back here before heading back home.”
2/7/22 Yelp – “Nice clean restaurant with friendly staff. The food was fantastic and came in good portions. They have a great drink selection too! Definitely on my list of places to eat when in town!”
Cheers to Jessica for her perseverance and a toast to her continued success.
We walked down the block – returning to Bandon Brewing Company and had dinner – we each had a great burger and scrumptious fries accompanied by a pint of their “Everything is Awesome Pale Ale” – which although not awesome, was smooth and drinkable. We had enough food left over from dinner for lunch in the car the next day.
The Final Day of Travel
We often travel up and down the North and Central Oregon Coast, but hadn’t seen the spectacular southern part since 2017, so were looking forward to breathtaking scenery and a few short walks in the many Oregon State Parks along the remaining three-hour 150 mile route.
Well our views were not awesome either and we drove through pea soup fog all the way to our place in Lincoln City and for two of the three days we were there before returning to Portland.
That said, we loved this trip!
External Photo Attribution
#1. Wikimedia Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Rachel_Held_Evans.jpg) Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license. Author: Dan Evans – circa 2009-10.
#3. Wikimedia Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Trinity_Alps_Wilderness_(140359867).jpeg L censed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported license. Source: Imported from 500px (archived version) by the Archive Team. 12 August 2011.
#4. Wikimedia Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pinus_balfouriana_Trinity_Alps_01.jpg) L censed under the Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license. Source: Tom Hilton 4 July 2009.
#5. Wikimedia Commons: (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pinus_balfouriana_Trinity_Alps.jpg) L icensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license. Source: Miguel Vieira from Walnut Creek, CA, 22 August 2010.
#8. Slice of Humboldt Pie Facebook Page (Facebook)
#10 – #11. Bandon Inn (1) Facebook