Tag Archives: Jeff and Susan Nopper

Revisiting the Inside Passage – Part II – Darwin’s Theory – An Outstanding Bar

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Our 2025 Visit to Darwin’s

Welcome back to Thebeerchaser. If you are seeing this post through an e-mail, please visit the blog by clicking on the title at the top to see all of the photos and so the narrative is not clipped or shortened.

On our Holland America Cruise this summer, Darwin’s Theory was only about five blocks from our hotel in Anchorage and this legendary dive bar radiates character.

I may be a bit biased since it’s owned by one Darwin Biwer – a 1966 graduate of my undergrad alma mater – Oregon State University.

It’s true that unlike fellow OSU grad, Linus Pauling, he didn’t want multiple Nobel Prizes. Similarly, unlikw fellow OSU alum Jensen Huang he’s not the founder and chief executive officer of NVIDIA, which in 2024 became the most valuable public company in the world.

That said, Darwin Biwer, owns and operates an outstanding establishment. 

(External photo attribution at the end of the post) (#1)

Prior to opening the bar, he had a storied career as a wildlife biologist for the State of Alaska. In the early eighties he decided to do something different as stated below:

“When Darwin and his buddies opened the bar at its current location on G Street, they all set out to open a bar where people could come and build community while sitting down to enjoy a cold beer.

Over its 40-plus years in business, Darwin’s Theory has become a neighborhood bar with a happy and laidback atmosphere that quickly becomes busy and boisterous when ‘the regulars” come to visit- locals, out-of-state visitors, grandchildren and great-grandchildren of some of Darwin’s first customers, airline crews, and more.” (#2)

Our first visit was eleven years ago on our 2014 cruise. That summer afternoon, Janet and I stopped at Darwin’s – which appeared to be just a hole-in-the-wall dive with a cool name in an old building. Our bartender was Barbara Jean (who I found out later was a legend like Darwin “Hisself.”).

Like many of the dive bars I’ve visited in the last fourteen years, Darwin’s was preceded by another establishment in the same quarters. In this case, a long-established bar named Ruthie’s Forty-Niner.  As stated by Darwin in the book, Last Call: (#3)

Darwin “Hisself”

“I bought Darwin’s Theory in Anchorage with two partners back in 1981. It was Ruthie’s Forty-Niner before that. Ruthie was seventy-six years old and she’d been in the bar business for thirty years, so she was ready to get out of the bar business.

But she couldn’t find anybody. I mean, all kinds of people were always wantin’ her to sell it to ’em all the time, but she was a shrewd old tomato and she wasn’t ready to sell it to just anybody.”      

But Ruthie relented when Darwin got two partners – Birdhouse Dick Delak and Bill Seltenrich from Fairbanks. The rest is history.

Now there were some other good and colorful bars in Anchorage that we checked out in 2014, such as Humpy’s Great Alaskan Ale House, McGinley’s Pub (reopened in 2023 after closing during the pandemic) and the Pioneer Bar.

I wrote about these and our first visit to Darwin’s in my 2014 blog post https://thebeerchaser.com/2014/07/08/thebeerchaser-does-alaska-anchorage-part-1/

Eleven years ago, we had an 8:00 PM dinner at the Glacier Brewhouse and we walked back to our hotel at 9:30. As might be expected in the Land of the Midnight Sun, it was still very sunny – the average summer daylight in Anchorage averages 19.5 hours.

I told Janet, “There’s no way I can get to sleep even with heavy curtains; I’m going back to Darwin’s!”  It was a good decision.

That Friday night, the watering hole was jammed. I sat at the horseshoe-shaped bar drinking a can of Budweiser next to a friendly guy named Bill – in his fifties and an oil field worker. He had also spent years fishing in the Bering Sea and some exciting times running marijuana from Mexico to the East coast in the ’70’s. “I had an old Lincoln with really big fenders….”

Barbara Jean was still serving and happily posed for a photo with Thebeerchaser logo.  She told me she’d worked at Darwin’s for twenty-nine years.

Barbara Jean

Unfortunately, Barbara Jean Ahberg passed away from cancer in 2015. Darwin’s has a pictorial memorial to her (see below) This was her description of Darwins in the aforementioned book:

“It’s a fun kind of old-fashioned bar. No tricks. What you see is what you get. You can tell people that they have to leave if they’re in a bad mood; which is right because it’s a small bar, so a bad mood or if somebody’s angry is going to impact everybody else’s mood.

So you can tell them to come back when they’re in a better mood and, generally, everybody listens to the bartender here, so we don’t have a big problem. We don’t have fights, or anything like that.”

The Darwin’s Easter Egg Decorating Contest and Stick Pony Race on Derby Day – are still annual events which she originated and hosted – ongoing tribute to her. (#4 -#7)

Barbara Jean’s description of how the Easter Egg contest “evolved.”

“Easter Sunday, my first year, there were three people here and it was so boring. Everybody was out doing lunches and church and all that. I just couldn’t have that, so the next year I had an Easter egg coloring contest.

…..There were about eight or nine people who participated the first year. This last year, thirty people participated and everybody wore Easter bonnets and I made a big turkey, a lot of food and champagne. And now it’s blossomed into a full-blown event.”

But What About Evolution?

It seems paradoxical, but one of the captivating features of Darwin’s Theory is that it has not evolved!  As stated in The Alaska Current:

“They haven’t caved to the trends of the time and installed 15 taps of various local IPAs. They are still rocking cans and bottles only. Never change Darwin’s, we love you.”

They still have the best free popcorn in Anchorage – maybe all of Alaska – also true of their juke box.  And don’t expect to use a credit card or a pay by check – “We accept no out-of-town checks and damn few local ones!”

Their signature drink still “…is sure to warm you up — cinnamon schnapps and tabasco!. According to their website, Darwin is the world’s biggest seller of cinnamon schnapps!”

That said, I didn’t verify if they still have what their website advises patrons to see:

“Be sure and visit the “Heavy Petting Zoo” in the backroom!  (#8 – #9)

This description in a Yelp review from 2013 by Eric from Nevada City still holds true:

“When you step inside, you’ll realize that this is no hipster dive bar. No sir! This has been a dive bar since inception and doesn’t appear to have changed.  Beer in the bottle, great service, and interesting patrons round out the perfect dive-bar experience.” 

And the long-time tradition of all-female bartenders still remains as evidenced when we returned this summer. One recent Roadtrippers.com review stated, “Amazing dive bar, if you’re lucky hottie Alaskan Annie will be bartending.”  Annie was indeed our bartender and proudly showed us her calendar entitled “Ladies of the North.” (#10 – #11)

And Then There’s Gene Ferguson

The 2023 Alaska Current newspaper article cited above, when listing the highlights of Darwin’s Theory, lists as the bar’s Most Valuable Person:

“The guy who tries to sell you wildlife postcards every single time you walk through the doors.”

Gene Ferguson

After about ninety minutes at the bar, our party met that MVP – 76-year-old Gene Ferguson – a Massachusetts native, who has now been in Alaska almost forty years. We had noticed him sitting at the bar near the entrance and showing people photos.

He then came over to our table and told his fascinating story, which again shows Darwin’s heart for his community. (I could devote an entire post to this incredible guy!)

Below is the first paragraph about Gene’s saga from the 5/3/2007 edition of the Alaska Frontiersman entitled: “Gene Ferguson takes on Anchorage Police over a DUI charge.”

“Thousands of people are arrested for drunken driving in Alaska every year. Some are doctors and lawyers who wear suits and live in big houses. Others are more like Gene Ferguson, who dresses in plaid flannel shirts and cargo pants, and is content to live in his van.

Ferguson beat his DUI rap, but Anchorage Police still seized his van, which left him not guilty yet homeless

Gene told us that about 2:30 AM, someone broke into his old van and stole his violin.  He tried to report it to two patrolmen. They advised him to wait until the morning and go to the police station which he did eight hours later.

Gene’s current home.

“…(two police officers) asked Ferguson if he’d been drinking. He told the officers he’d had a few drinks the night before, he said, and then tried to tell them about the stolen violin. But that’s not what (the cops) were interested in. They had Ferguson perform several field sobriety tests.”

Gene flunked, in large part because of his physical limitations, and they arrested him and impounded his van. But that’s is where the plot thickened. He blew a .0145 on the breathalyzer, which is way below (about one-fifth) of the .08 legal limit.

The charges were dropped, but a hearings officer ruled that because the officers had probable cause, Gene had to pay the $400 in impound and related fees to get his van back. A lawyer represented him pro-bono in a subsequent hearing. I don’t know if he prevailed in getting the fees refunded.

Gene was animated and philosophical as we listened intently to his story and although neither we nor our friends, the Noppers, have ever done a similar transaction in a bar, we each readily paid him $25 for two beautiful photos. The stunning mage of Mount Denali below is now framed and hangs in our house in Oregon.

Gene’s Photo

Gene Ferguson evidently has many friends who look out for him besides the crew at Darwins. On his 70th birthday, Darwins had a birthday party for him.

Purportedly, noted Alaska artist, Byron Birdsall, known for his exceptional talent in watercolor and oil paintings, “was impressed enough by (one of Gene’s) photographs to make a painting, as well as a limited-edition print of it, shown here with the photographer.”  (#12 – #13)

Birthday Boy

I don’t know when we’ll return to Alaska, but I’d love to meet Darwin in person and would suggest if you visit Anchorage, to stop, have a beer or a peppermint schnapps and say hello to Gene, who will probably convince you to buy a photo or a postcard.

The pandemic resulted in the permanent closure of many bars and breweries in Alaska – just as it did throughout the US.  But Darwin’s Theory Bar give’s credence to English philosopher, Herbert Spencer’s phrase “Survival of the Fittest” describing Charles Darwin’s Theory of Natural Selection.

Darwin Biwer has been in business for over four decades and had to close his bar several times during the pandemic, but stated in the March 9, 2021 edition of Alaska’s News Source:

“’We’ve had volcanoes, we’ve had earthquakes, we’ve had our share being downtown here, but nothing, nothing close to this,’ he said, reflecting on the pandemic that forced him to shut his doors more than once….’You probably noticed, I have a big, big smile on my face,’ he said. ‘We’re eight days short of a full year of our first closure…’

“It feels like there is hope that there’s a light at the end of the tunnel,’ he said. ‘We’ve been in a real dark tunnel for a long time.’

Charles Darwin once said, “A man’s friendships are one of the best measures of his worth.”

Darwin’s Theory is now thriving and customers, from not only throughout Alaska, but airline personnel, oil field workers, fishermen and just plain tourists from all over the world, make a beeline for Darwin’s Theory when they come to Anchorage. I would suggest it’s going to keep happening for several more decades.

Besides the free popcorn, that’s because the owner and his employees all convey Charles Darwin’s sentiment above.

Cheers and Blessings for the Season

External Photo Attribution

#1. Darwin’s Theory Facebook Page logo (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=490204523111461&set=pb.100063657515543.-2207520000&type=3)

#2. Yelp Review (https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/darwins-theory-anchorage?select=WNztjmz6O_HDLGRoIhcq7Q). Jeff C – 8/8/24.

#3. Darwin’s Theory Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/darwinstheoryalaska/photos/pb.100063657515543.-2207520000/1853568564683285/?type=3)

#4. Legacy Alaska.com (Barbara Jean Alberg Obituary).

#5. Darwin’s Theory Facebook Page – derby (https://www.facebook.com/darwinstheoryalaska/photos/pb.100063657515543.-2207520000/2177964025577069/?type=3).

#6. Darwin’s Theory Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=921019780029931&set=pb.100063657515543.-2207520000&type=3).

#7. Darwin’s Theory Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=923705796427996&set=pb.100063657515543.-2207520000&type=3).

#8. Darwin’s Theory Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=977459521052623&set=pcb.977460011052574).

#9. Darwin’s Theory Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/darwinstheoryalaska/photos/pb.100063657515543.-2207520000/2103396279700511/?type=3).

#10. Darwin’s Theory Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/darwinstheoryalaska/photos/pb.100063657515543.-2207520000/671773299529490/?type=3).

#11. Darwin’s Theory Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=634992978632614&set=pb.100063657515543.-2207520000&type=3).

#12.  Darwin’s Theory Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/darwinstheoryalaska/photos/pb.100063657515543.-2207520000/2124421557597983/?type=3).

#13. Alaska Life Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/TheAlaskaLife/posts/anchorage-alaska-in-the-dead-of-winter-photo-by-gene-ferguson/2260378640660854/) Daryl Pederson  8 January 2019.

 

Revisiting the Inside Passage – Part I

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In 2014, Janet and I took a Holland America cruise down the Inside Passage from Anchorage to Vancouver, BC with her sister, Linda Nelson and husband, Dick. The nine-day trip commenced with a train ride from Anchorage to Denali National Park.

After one and one-half days at the Park, we returned by bus to Whittier where we boarded the SS Statendam for the remaining seven and one-half days. The trip was wonderful as might be evidenced by the photos below:

When our good friends, Jeff and Susan Nopper, with whom we’ve done several previous cruises, asked us if we would repeat our Alaska trip with them (they had never been) we readily agreed. The itinerary was pretty much identical to our 2014 voyage only this time on the Nieuw Amsterdam – a slightly smaller ship, albeit still a very large vessel.

It accommodates just over 2,000 passengers and 900 crew members with a length of 936 feet and width of 106 feet.  Launched in Venice in 2009, it had all of the amenities of the larger ship.

Although it was not mentioned in the Holland America material, I was not overly concerned about the ship’s grounding incident in 2017 when strong winds blew her from her mooring and snapped her lines in Mexico and the collision with another vessel in 2019 while docking in Vancouver, BC. (Wikipedia)

I have to give Janet credit for this vacation because although I love cruising, she’s not totally enamored with the experience even though she has enjoyed the three we’d taken. Part of that may be because she is prone to seasickness. She only experienced that to a limited extent, however, on our cruise to the Panama Canal.

So, she checked with our wonderful primary-care physician who prescribed an anti-nausea skin patch for motion sickness. The physician isn’t a fan because they can have some side effects, but due to the limited duration and that Janet might not even need it, she wasn’t overly concerned.   

Janet went to fill it and the pharmacist stated, “You should not use this while drinking alcohol,” which caused my wonderful spouse of forty-five years to do a double-take and respond, “Well that may be a challenge.” 

That’s because of the somewhat ridiculous marketing ploy by Holland America. The “benefit” below was not one we requested but just added as part of the basic cost.

For each day of the nine-day cruise, each passenger on our package receives fifteen drinks. Now basic coffee and soft drinks don’t count although my daily Americano and Janet’s latte did, but we laughed and figured given the circumstances, she would just avoid the patch.

The daily drink quota seemed absurd and if one consumed even a good part of that amount, he or she might need the patch to keep from throwing up ingested alcohol rather than vomiting from seasickness. (#1)

Here’s today’s allotment Mr. Williams

Not to get overly involved in a discussion about alcohol, but I had to laugh at a blog doing a cost-benefit analysis on the issue which stated, “Unlike some cruise lines that offer truly unlimited beverage packages, Holland America line has a cap of 15 drinks per day.” (emphasis added) Really!?  Perhaps the blogger should further explain that distinction.

I might add that the beer selection was really poor, so I was more than comfortable deferring to my drink-of-choice when it’s not an IPA or Miller High Life (in a bottle) – a gin martini, up and with olives.

Janet also pointed out that notwithstanding those from the gin and given the outstanding cuisine each day, fifteen martinis with three olives (an absolute requirement) would be forty-five additional calories.

Each olive is about five to seven calories.  In addition, one health-related website advised that more than 10 to 15 olives daily presents some sodium concerns…..(#2 – #3)

Not to belabor the point, but the only other concern with the drink package was resolved with my due diligence before the cruise. Given the aforementioned collision and grounding, I wanted to make sure that the ship’s officers and the bridge crew were not also eligible for the fifteen-drink daily allotment.

For those interested in naval history, the traditional daily grog (rum) ration on ships – known as the “daily tot” was essentially ended in 1970 (at least in the British Navy) on what became known as “Black Tot Day.”) (#4)

No more daily “tot” for these guys.

It should be noted, notwithstanding my attempt at humor above, that the crew of Holland American (HA) ships are exceptional mariners. Take the captain of our ship – one Bas van Dremel.

He was born in The Netherlands and attended the prestigious Willem Barentsz Maritime Institute. van Dremel first worked for HA when he was still in school as a cadet in 1995 and then after graduation for the next twenty-eight years rising from navigator to the rank of Master (Captain) of several different HA vessels.

Those who had contact with the Captain on the ship said that he was both articulate and personable. (#5)

Personable and Articulate

Why Cruise Alaska?

There are those who scoff at cruises as a way to expand one’s travel horizons. To really see the western coast of Alaska and sights such as Glacier Bay, I would suggest it’s the most effective from a standpoint of cost and time. Some prefer booking on smaller vessels, but exploring by car presents some real challenges.

Below is the itinerary showing the three ports we visited after our two-day visit to Denali National Park. The days without a port call and just “scenic cruising” such as on Glacier Bay were my favorite.

 

While many of the passengers took part in activities such as origami folding, coloring for adults, a Sjoelen (table shuffleboard) tournament, a ladies pamper party (?) or creating designs from doodles, I just went out on our veranda with a book (and sometimes a martini -one of the fifteen…) and reveled in the panoramic surroundings.

Oregon is a beautiful state; however, Alaska is almost unbelievable for the ongoing 360-degree scenic vistas – I mean sensory overload!

Whale sighting

Before leaving for the morning train trip to Denali National Park, we had an afternoon and evening in Anchorage.  Of course, I prevailed on our party to have pre-dinner beers at one of my favorite (in the top five) bars of the 400+ I’ve reviewed since starting Thebeerchaser  in 2011.

In the next post, I’ll tell you in detail why if you are ever in Anchorage, you have to experience the dive bar ambiance and character of Darwin’s Theory. Stay tuned! (#6)

Cheers

External Photo Attribution

#1. Picsart AI Image Generator.

2. Public Domain – Wikimedia Commons (File:Green olives (pitted) – Massachusetts.jpg – Wikimedia Commons) File is made available under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication.  Author: Daderot – 27 November 2020.

#3. Wikimedia Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Triple_olive_Dirty_Martini_-_Evan_Swigart.jpg) Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license.  Author: Even Swigart – 12 October 2010.

#4. Picsart AI Image Generator.

#5. Linked-in Bas van Dreumel.

#6. Darwin Theory’s Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=490204523111461&set=pb.100063657515543.-2207520000&type=3).

 

 

 

Hop Aboard with Thebeerchaser – Bar Harbor and Boston

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In several previous posts, I’ve covered our seven-day Holland America cruise from Montreal to Boston in early May that Janet and I made accompanied by our good friends, Jeff and Susan Nopper. (External Photo Attribution at the end of the post #1.)

I told you about Three Brassieres – a great brewery in Montreal, how a walking tour of Quebec City captivated us with visits of the impressive Fairmont LA Chateau Frontenac Hotel and the majestic Notre-Dame de-Quebec Basilica Cathedral (#2) in the historic city.

Then our day in Charlottetown on Prince Edward Island – home of another splendid edifice – St. Dunstan’s Cathedral Basilica. (Clockwise – left to right below)

You saw pictures from our bus tour on the Cabot Trail out of Sydney, Nova Scotia and I vicariously let you raise a mug with us in the Garrison’s Brewery in Halifax (#3) after visiting scenic Peggy’s Cove. Wilken, our bartender at Garrison’s was friendly and helpful.

I shared how we didn’t even try to quaff our daily quota of fifteen drinks each – as unbelievable as that Holland America gimmick sounds – but I could have actually downed three Americanos, seven beers and five martinis and not paid extra based on the cruise package we had. 

Even with the outstanding and plentiful food available, I wouldn’t have fulfilled that daily beverage quota.  But for the first time, I discovered the wonders of a Smokey Boulevardier cocktail. (#3)

And the people we met were memorable ranging from 87-year-old electrician, Sonny, and his educator wife from Florida to Jennifer and JD – middle aged Texans who had recently ridden their Harleys to South Dakota for the annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally and singer Anne Cochran.

We met Anne at breakfast.  She is the superb vocalist from Cleveland (with a trial lawyer husband she met after serving on one of his juries) who, besides her own singing career for many years, has accompanied her friend going back to their teen years, Grammy-winning pianist, Jim Brickman, both in his albums and on tours. (#4)

A Stellar Spectacle

Late in the evening of the sixth night as were cruising in the Atlantic Ocean from Halifax to Bar Harbor, Maine, we were leaving the bar (not even close to our quota that day) after listening to the great combo featuring a talented female vocalist.

In the passageway heading to our stateroom, some crew members were excitedly running to the bow of the ship with their cameras.

We heard one shout, “It’s the Northern Lights” and figured if the crew thought it was extraordinary, we should take a look.  And it was amazing, although interestingly enough, not as visible without looking through your camera.

This phenomenon was actually a powerful solar storm that appeared across the globe according to news reports including this one from The Oregonian. I guess we could have seen the same show from our own house, but it was still a thrill on the bow of the ship.

“Brilliant purple, green, yellow and pink hues of the Northern Light were reported worldwide. In the U.S., the lights pushed much farther south than normal….In the Pacific Northwest, they could even be seen from the Portland area.

…..the best aurora views may come from phone cameras which are better at capturing light than the naked eye.”

Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park

Bar Harbor was the only port where we had to use a tender – or small boat to transport us to shore from where we anchored. 

Bar Harbor is a charming city, and we had visited it and toured Acadia National Park several years ago. We enjoyed lunch there and a van tour around the beautiful Park – one of our favorites.

And when visiting in 2018, we had excellent beer at Atlantic Brewing – the Midtown location, so before returning to the ship, we looked forward to returning:

“Atlantic Brewing is a family-owned brewery located in Bar Harbor and surrounded by Acadia National Park.  The brewery was founded in downtown Bar Harbor inside the Lompoc Cafe. 

As demand grew, and the company outgrew its space, it moved down the road to an estate brewery built on the site of a 19th century Bar Harbor farmstead…

In 2017, the Midtown Brewery opened in downtown Bar Harbor, a block away from the original location.   Midtown is a modern brewery and taproom focusing on pilot and specialty batches.”

Given the good selection, we couldn’t decide so had a small sampler.  Afterwards, we had a great chat with Thomas who manages the Midtown location. The lower left picture shows a sampler we had in 2018, so we moderated in 2024 (No. Not because we had fifteen drinks waiting for us back at the ship…..)

Our three four-ounce samples, shown above, were Blueberry Ale, Mountain Hopper IPA and Atlantic Summer Ale – all excellent brews. 

Boston – Our Debarkation Port

We sailed from Bar Harbor with scheduled Saturday arrival at around 10 AM in Boston.  With some regret, I realized that I didn’t participate in several cruise activities – “Coloring for Adults”, “Origami Folding – Paperbomb” or the “Art of Flower Arranging.” 

Walking around the third deck multiple times daily, however, and a few fitness center workouts at least kept me from gaining any weight notwithstanding the excellent food. (Janet also pointed out that alcohol has calories….)

Now Janet and I had been to Boston multiple times on work trips and once since my 2011 retirement. Jeff and Susan were catching the one non-stop Alaska Air flight to Portland that evening at 7:30. Before the trip, I had negotiated with Janet asking:

“When are we going to get back to Beantown again?  Let’s stay over Saturday night and eat at Giacomo’s – our favorite restaurant in the North End and explore the City on Sunday until we hit Logan Airport.” (#5)

She agreed and we booked a room at the Renaissance Boston Waterfront Hotel in the impressive Seaport District in South Boston – within walking distance of where we docked.

“The Seaport is a formerly industrial area that has undergone an extensive redevelopment effort in recent years…As of 2017, it was the fastest growing part of Boston and has stimulated significant economic growth in the city.  The restoration of the Seaport began with the completion of the Big Dig.”

I reassured Janet that it was good that we were seeing it now as according to Wikipedia, “The Seaport District is at risk of climate-related flooding over the next 30 years.”  (#6)

Our Boston Weekend

In the slim hope that we’d get to see the Red Sox play at historic Fenway Park, I googled their schedule and found that they had a home game at 4:00 on Saturday afternoon.  We debated just relaxing at the hotel given that we would require public transportation.

Remembering our visit to another historic stadium – Wrigley Field on a 2008 business trip to Chicago, which was fantastic, however, we decided on an adventure.  I’ll share that in the final post on our cruise, but before the game, we had to check out a brewery.

Waiting for the Cubs to play at Wrigley

We walked to nearby Harpoon Brewery and Beer Hall. It has a distinctive exterior and expansive and attractive interior. In 1986 the Harpoon Brewery received Brewing Permit #001 in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts.

It has a commonality with the Northwest and the origins of craft beer because:

“Harpoon was the first brewery in New England to brew an India Pale Ale….and first sold as a summer seasonal in 1993 and quickly became the brewery’s flagship beer. Harpoon IPA quickly became a staple of the American India pale ale style and was found on tap at bars and restaurants in Greater Boston.

In July 2014, while then the twelfth-largest craft brewery in the United States, the company became employee-owned.” (Wikipedia)

We had just consumed a bowl of New England Clam Chowder in a nearby bistro, so didn’t get to try one of Harpoon’s signature pretzels. Tim, our server, who attended college nearby was friendly and briefed us on the history. (#7)

Of course, we had a Harpoon IPA. 
 
 

Photo May 11 2024, 2 24 20 PM

External Photo Attribution

#1.  Holland America Website (Find Cruises – Search Cruise Itineraries 2024, 2025, & 2026 (hollandamerica.com).

#2.  Wikimedia Commons (File:Basilique-cathédrale de Notre-Dame-de-Québec.JPG – Wikimedia Commons)  Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.  Author: Sylvainbrousseau 16 September 2012.

#3.  Wikimedia Commons (File:2022-08-15 02 Wikivoyage banner image of Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.jpg – Wikimedia Commons). Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license.  Author: Gordon Leggett -15 August 2022.  

  #4. Anne Cochran Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/jimbrickman/photos/a.166961617144/10153808359072145/?type=3.

#5. Wikimedia Commons (File:Boston Seaport (36318p).jpg – Wikimedia Commons)  Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license. Author: Rhododendrites – 13 November 2019.

#6.  Wikimedia Commons (File:Boston skyline from East Boston November 2016 panorama 1.jpg – Wikimedia Commons)  Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license.  Author: King of Hearts – 12 November 2016.

#7.  Harpoon Brewery Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/woodmansofessex/photos/t.100064984110084/10159973737455557/?type=3).

Hop on Board with Thebeerchaser – Halifax

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Welcome back to Thebeerchaser. If you are seeing this post through an e-mail, please visit the blog by clicking on the title above to see all of the photos at the end of the post and so the narrative isn’t clipped. (External photo attribution at the end of the post #1)

Our cruise from Montreal to Boston on Holland America’s Volendam continued and the sixth day we made port at Halifax, Nova Scotia – a delightful and picturesque city – with a current population of 441,000 – the capital and most populous municipality of the Canadian province of Nova Scotia. (Wikipedia) 

Halifax has the social, cultural and economic features of a major urban center, but rugged natural beauty nearby within its boundaries:

” …famed for its massive natural port, which is one of the world’s largest and greatest of its sort. Halifax was created in 1749, and the Halifax Harbor has given significant benefits throughout the years.”  (Port of Halifax)

Given the early date in the season, we were the only cruise ship in port, however, that was an anomaly.  Besides being an international marine shipping and cargo center:

” In 2019, the Port of Halifax had 179 cruise vessel calls with over 323,000 passengers aboard. It is estimated that cruise passengers alone contribute about $172 million to Halifax’s economy every year.”  (#2 – #3)

Nearby Natural Beauty

While I was most enthused to visit a thriving brewery very close to our pier (see below), we first visited a beautiful natural area reached by a twenty-seven mile scenic bus ride to Peggy’s Cove:

“Peggy’s Cove is a small rural community located on the eastern shore of St. Margarets Bay in the Halifax Regional Municipality, which is the site of Peggys Cove Lighthouse (established 1868.)”

Although it was cloudy with light rain, the destination and the history made it worth seeing.  The surrounding community also appeared to be a close-knit group bound by braving harsh Atlantic weather and their occupations as can be evidenced below. 

“On September 2, 1998, Swissair Flight 111 crashed into St. Margaret’s Bay approximately eight kilometres (five miles) southwest of Peggy’s Cove with the loss of all 229 aboard. The cove became one of the staging areas for first responders that were involved in the search-and-rescue response, crash recovery operation, and investigation of the crash.

Many of the CCGA volunteers that were first to approach the crash site were privately owned fishing boats that were operating out of Peggy’s Cove and surrounding harbours.”

The memorial below is a tribute to the crew and passengers on that ill-fated flight. (#4)

Let’s not forget about Beerchasing…!

We hadn’t had a beer at a brewery for two days when we had enjoyed a pint in Charlottetown at the Gahan Brewery.  The selection of beer on the ship was dismal although they had great martinis, but I was ready to hit this brewery on the south waterfront.

And it has a good story spurred by its motto “Art, Science and Good ‘ol Hard Work.”  Garrison Brewing originally opened in 1971 and has expanded.  Located in a wonderful historic building, it evidently has had one of its brewpubs in this location since 2006. 

They had a decent selection of beers on tap, but we were delighted with our selection – Janet had a Tall Ship East Coast Ale:

“Brewed with adventure, craft, pride & independence, this beer delivers on true refreshment with an easy-going style. Drop anchor & hoist a glass.”  I also loved the fact that it’s made with Willamette (Oregon) hops.

I’m a big fan of red ales and Garrison’s Irish Red Ale was wonderful and the initial beer  brewed when Garrison opened:

“Ruby red with a smooth malt base, Irish Red Ale is where it all began. Taste the beer that launched a brewery.“ (#5 – #6)

Photo May 09 2024, 12 14 32 PM

And Garrison Brewing had a great atmosphere ranging from our friendly bartender, Wilken, to the pet-friendly environment evidenced by the poster in the photo below. We were sorry that we would not be able to visit their other location.

From some quick research, it appeared that Halifax has a significant number of quality craft breweries which may merit a return visit, but our ship was ready to weigh anchor and head to Bar Harbor, Maine, our next port-of-call. 

And this day meant some travel in the Atlantic Ocean which I was anticipating. The map below is in reverse order and doesn’t include our port of origin, Montreal, but it will give you an idea of the two remaining days of the cruise. (#7)

The People

One of the unexpected joys of this trip was the people we met besides our long-time friends and cruise companions – Jeff and Susan Nopper, I have mentioned in previous posts.  There was Brad and Tammy from Colorado Springs. 

Brad, when he found out about my Beerchasing hobby, gave an immediate invitation to visit his city and hit the numerous quality breweries. I could attest to this based on a previous Colorado road trip and reminded him that I had seen Colorado Springs labeled “The Napa Valley of Beer.” 

He was especially enthused about Red Leg Brewing and Janet and I will visit it on a September road trip. (#8 – #9)

Then there was Sonny – one of the most energetic eighty-seven year old guys I’ve seen who is still working as an electrician in Florida.  We ate dinner with him and his wife (whose name escapes me) – a few years younger and who still works as a teacher.

I can’t forget JD and Jennifer, a very friendly couple from Houston, who we met at the bar one night.  Both a few years from retirement – he works as a petroleum consultant and she in the legal field.

They had just returned from riding their Harleys to Sturgis for the annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally in the Black Hills of South Dakota – a ten-day event attended by over 500,000. What an interesting couple! (#10)

Ride to the Black Hills!

But the most interesting and engaging person we met was at a breakfast on the ship when an attractive woman came up and asked if she could join us as there was a vacant two-person table adjacent to ours.

Anne Cochran introduced herself and told us that her husband was playing Texas Holdem – one of the daily activities on the ship – and she was grabbing a late breakfast. (#11)

We started exchanging information and I gave her my Beerchasing card which she said her husband – a trial lawyer, would love. 

She’s from Cleveland and related that she met him after serving on a jury in a trial that he won.  Anne was very personable and I asked her what she did for a living. She modestly stated, “Well, I don’t know if you know of Jim Brickman, but I do vocal accompaniment for him.”

I replied that I certainly did know of Jim Brickman.  He’s one of the most well-known solo pianists in the nation and a multiple Grammy winner.  I have a bunch of his numbers on my iTunes.

“The hit-making songwriter is the best-selling solo pianist of our time, earning 22 Number One albums and 32 Top 20 Radio Singles.

He’s garnered two Grammy nominations, Gospel Music’s Dove Award, two SESAC Songwriter of the Year Awards, a Canadian Country Music Award, and is a member of Pandora’s ‘2 Billion Streams’ Club.” (https://www.jimbrickman.com/bio/) (#12 – #13)

Of course, I was curious and after breakfast checked out the Web. I first came across a clip from a 2010 CBS Good Morning Show where the duo performed “Never Alone” released in 2006.

Anne has a captivating background which has led to a long and impressive vocal career.

“Anne Cochran began her career as a teenage, lead vocalist in Cleveland Ohio…while earning her degree in Theater and Voice at Case Western Reserve University by day.

When Anne and her young friend, (the soon-to-become ‘Piano Romance Man’) Jim Brickman, entered and won a ‘You Light Up My Life’ radio contest, they began a stellar twenty-year stage and studio collaboration that has gone on to produce many hits, 4 PBS Specials and countless sold out shows throughout the world.”  Story – Anne Cochran

To get another idea of the quality of her voice, check out this Youtube link to the number she recorded in 2008 entitled “Face of Your Heart.”  (#14)

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=8wSuy1dTNkc

We saw Anne and her husband a night later in the lounge and had a nice conversation. They were both very enjoyable people and one of the highlights of the cruise.

Stay tuned for our final stop before ending the cruise in Boston. Bar Harbor was a wonderful stop for several reasons I will cover in my next post.

Cheers

External Photo Attribution

#1.   Wikimedia Commons  (2022-08-15 01 Wide angle view of Halifax skyline, Nova Scotia, Canada 1801 Hollis crop – File:2022-08-15 01 Wide angle view of Halifax skyline, Nova Scotia, Canada.jpg – Wikimedia Commons) By Gordon Leggett – File:2022-08- Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license.  – 15 August 2022.

#2. Wikimedia Commons (File:Enchantment of the Seas Halifax 2011 (cropped).jpg – Wikimedia Commons) Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license. Author: ctgreybeard – 27 September 2011.

#3.  Port of Halifax –  Stories from Our Port | One Port City (oneportcityhfx.ca))

 #4.  Public Domain – Wikimedia Commons (Swissair 111 Memorial near Peggys Cove – Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia – Wikipedia)  By Own work, Public Domain – 22 September 2006 (https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=61550912). This work has been released into the public domain by its author, Josephbrophy. This applies worldwide.

#5. Garrison Brewing ((Beer/Soda | Garrison (garrisonbrewing.com)

#6. Garrison Brewing (Beer/Soda | Garrison (garrisonbrewing.com)

#7.  Holland America Website (Best Canada and New England Cruises | Holland America)

#8 – #9.  Red Leg Brewing Facebook Page (Red Leg Brewing Company | Facebook).

#10.  Wikimedia Commons (Main Street Sturgis South Dakota Bike Week – Sturgis Motorcycle Rally – Wikipedia) By I, Cumulus Clouds, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2346862. Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic, 2.0 Generic and 1.0 Generic license. 11 Aug 2006.

#11. Anne Cochran YouTube 2008 (YouTube Music).

#12.  Anne Cochran Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=507554744709650&set=a.507554711376320)

#13. Anne Cochran Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/jimbrickman/photos/a.166961617144/10153808359072145/?type=3)

#14.  YouTube (Face of Your Heart – YouTube Music)

 

Hop on Board with Thebeerchaser – Part I

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Holland America’s Volendam

Janet and I recently completed a seven-day Holland America cruise on the Volendam – from Montreal to Boston.  We were accompanied by our long-time friends Jeff and Susan Nopper. (External photo attribution at end of the post #1 – 2.)

Our travel history included two prior HA cruises – the first from Anchorage, Alaska to Vancouver, BC in 2014.  It included a side trip to Denali National Park before the cruise started and the journey by ship was wonderful way to see Glacier Bay; whales and wildlife; and the Alaska coastline that would be a challenge on another mode of transport.

In 2018, we took a second cruise – this one with the Noppers to the Panama Canal from Fort Lauderdale, Florida – not a full transit – through the canal from east to west – but just through the locks.  After a cruise around Lake Gatun we went back through the canal to the Atlantic Ocean and explored the Caribbean.

A massive cargo ship going through the canal

I’ll give more info in a future post, but on the first two cruises, both of our ships accommodated 2,700 passengers and 1,000 crew members. The vessel for the recent trip up the St. Lawrence Seaway and around Nova Scotia was about half that size – 1,432 passengers and 647 crew.  

Although we enjoyed the first two cruises, we definitely preferred the smaller ship which still had great amenities – pool, great gym and workout facility, pickleball court, casino, theater and, of course, multiple bars and restaurants.

And I’ll have to state that my wife, Janet, is not the biggest fan of cruises – partly because of a tendency for motion sickness. She gave me this cruise for my birthday although it was much better than she expected and she did not get seasick.  

The Noppers on the Panama cruise
Don and Janet in Panama
Janet and Susan on the St. Lawrence
Don and Jeff waiting for Montreal flight

Janet was prepared with patches and medication but did not have to use them – the biggest swells were about three feet around Halifax. 

This was a good thing because our cruise package provided fifteen “free” drinks each day.  Her pharmacist told her to avoid mixing pills or patches with alcohol….

I might add that if you plan a trip, take Susan Nopper with you. Janet is an excellent planner, but Susan is the epitome of a well-prepared and informed journeyer.  She always knew when, where, how what, and why……

I bemoaned the fact that I did not have my college bota bag with me given the drink quota, but there was no way we could consume that much booze.  Coffee drinks also counted and one day I had to work off a caffeine high by walking the deck several miles after having four espressos.

And I have to admit that I supplemented my typical martini or microbrew with some new cocktails including a “Smokey Boulevardier.” 

It was indeed smokey and one of the ship’s officers jokingly came over to the bartender and asked if he needed to alert the ship about an on-board fire as smoke was wafting over the bar as he prepared my cocktail.

The ingredients in the Boulevardier – credited to Harry McElhone, the founder, and proprietor of Harry’s New York Bar in Paris – include:

  • 1 1/2 ounces bourbon whiskey
  • 1 ounce sweet vermouth
  • 1 ounce Apéritif
  • Orange twist, for garnish

But I have to admit, my favorite drink on the ship was their beautiful Bloody Mary.  I also coaxed Jeff Nopper into having his first martini – gin, up with olives.

The food was also superb with multiple eateries – formal and informal available at all times of the day.  For example, take a look at the late night menu available at the Lido Cafe below. 

It reminded me of my Navy destroyer when we had “Midrats from 8:00 PM to midnight:

 “Midrats has been a Naval tradition dating back to 1902, when the Navy decide to make changes to Sailors’ diet by introducing a new meal to the fleet. President Theodore Roosevelt signed the 1902 Navy Ration Act that included a section for additional rations specifically for Sailors who worked the night shift.

Nowadays, Sailors can choose from breakfast items such as eggs, pancakes, bacon, sausage, and French toast; or dinner items like pork chops, ribs, mashed potatoes,
green beans, steak, and grilled chicken.”

The difference between the Navy and the HA cruise, was after the midnight snack, I didn’t have a watch on the bridge of the ship from midnight to 3:00 AM.

Not to get totally preoccupied with food, but the selection was amazing and  and the quality very good from appetizers to desserts as you can see from the selection of cupcakes one evening and decorated cakes the next.

Fortunately, we were disciplined in our walks around the 1/3 of a mile deck just a step away from our stateroom.  Surprisingly, we didn’t gain any weight.

Montreal – The City of Mary

We had a night and a morning in Montreal before the ship departed and it is a wonderful city in which one could spend days if not weeks touring this metropolis of 1.8 million people.  

Since our time was limited, we took a 90-minute bus tour to see Mount Royal, the underground and the historic buildings:

“Some of the city’s earliest still-standing buildings date back to the late 17th and early 18th centuries. Although most are clustered around the Old Montreal area, such as the Sulpician Seminary adjacent to Notre Dame Basilica that dates back to 1687.” Wikipedia

Of course, even though we were limited to one evening in the city, we set out to find a watering hole or two to quench our thirsts – possibly to build up to the routine on the ship. I will fill you in on the next post, but have to leave you with this one unforgettable memory of Montreal.

We were walking in the late afternoon in the downtown area and came across a middle-aged guy with a baby carriage in which a live rabbit was contentedly riding.  He offered to let the rabbit get out and run around. 

Of course, I wanted to make a comment that this was not the kind of hops I was seeking for  my the Beerchaser blog, but the others told me to hold my tongue and he rolled his cargo away when the light changed.

Not the kind of hops Thebeerchaser was seeking….

Cheers

External Photo Attribution

#1 – #2.  Holland America Website (Cruises Search Award-Winning Cruises – Find Deals & Packages (hollandamerica.com).