The Holy Ghost Bar – A Spiritual Progression

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I’ve been to a slew of bars and breweries in fourteen years of Beerchasing in which the establishment had a previous life – something distinctly different from a watering hole.

These have included automotive shops and garages, drycleaners and laundromats, printing shops and even lawyer offices and houses of ill repute (in one case, reportedly in the same quarters…)  In many cases, the bar or brewery was initially another drinking establishment that went out of business or changed ownership.

Such is the case of The Holy Ghost – opened in November 2022 in Southeast Portland at the busy intersection of 28th and Gladstone.  For decades, it was a funky dive bar – Pub at the End of the Universe operated by the McCormick family – notable Portland restauranters. It closed in 2017.

“(The developer) has been researching the building and says it seems to have been built in the 1920s or earlier and played home to four or so tenants over the years. It was once a pharmacy with a tavern alongside, and before it was named Pub at the End of the Universe…”  Portland Eater 12/15/17 (#3)

“Pub at the End of the Universe has been established for over 30 years by the McCormick family. A haven for all vibration that liked to chill out and be treated like family. The Pub has a unique atmosphere with multi levels and full bar, pool and darts.

The music scene dates back to late 80’s with rock and roll and metal bands opening up the ears and eyes of the Pub….We were creating a place where folks can get together and be creative with the Universe.”  Reverbnation.com

Why the Holy Ghost?

In 2024, I had two informal gatherings with colleagues involved with the Abbey Foundation of Oregon (I serve as VP of the Board).  I was looking for a new Beerchasing venue and thought a religious theme would be appropriate.  

Having already been to the wonderful Church Bar in 2013, I ruled that one out – maybe a good choice because in November, a patron was stabbed to death in the bar (The Oregonian.) https://thebeerchaser.com/2013/12/11/church-eat-drink-pray-repent/so

I also thought that the venerable Bar of the Gods one of the first bars I visited early in 2012 – only six months after I started this hobby – would be inappropriate so I narrowed it down. (Notice the prices on the BOG menu….)

The Bible Club and The Holy Ghost both get great reviews and had convenient locations, but the latter got the edge because of its martinis.  I met my former law firm colleague, Margaret Hoffman there and it was a good choice. 

Marget is now retired and besides being honored in her profession as a top product liability litigator (Oregon Super Lawyer and named as one of the Best Lawyers in America), Margaret is an outstanding human being.  She is also skilled at fly fishing and in her “spare time” spends additional court-time playing pickle-ball and traveling the world.

The Holy Ghost has a bright and attractive interior that has been totally refurbished since the Pub at the End of the Universe days.  The only reference to elements of the trinity in the former were vodka, wine and beer. 

Sid Chi, the friendly Bar Manager, since it opened in 2022, said the bar was named “after some song the owners liked.” Subsequent research revealed that it emanated from The Bar- Kays:

“The Bar-Kays is an American funk band formed in 1964. The band had dozens of charting singles from the 1960s to the 1980s, including ‘Soul Finger’ (US Billboard Hot 100 number 17, R&B number 3) in 1967, ‘Son of Shaft’ (R&B number 10) in 1972, and ‘Boogie Body Land’ (R&B number 7) in 1980.”  (Wikipedia) (#4)

The_Bar-Kays_1968_press_photo

(In 1978, they had a hit single “The Holy Ghost” that rose to #9 on the US Rhythm and Blue Chart.)

“Your love is like the Holy Ghostshakin’ all in my bonesI never felt such a feelin’In all the days I been round, yeahWhenever I feel the pressure(Jah!) I can’t seem to hypnotize my mind(Well!) Your love is like the Holy GhostAnd I feel like I’ve been born a second time.”  (Genius.com)

Margaret and I are both martini drinkers (me with gin and her with vodka) so we didn’t take advantage of their extensive cocktail/mocktail selection which draws rave reviews.  And the Holy Ghost Gin Fizz may be worth returning:

“We’re really into the idea of the gin fizz. It’s a great drink but no one wants to make it because it takes so long to shake,” Caraeff says, describing the five-minute shaking process it takes to mix a proper version of the New Orleans classic.

So, the team purchased a number of bubble tea shaking machines to do the work for them. It still takes a solid five minutes to make, a fact that is outlined on the menu, but that’s just part of the charm.”  (Portland Eater)

Cocktail “Heaven”

But the gin fizz is not the only innovative concoction as evidenced by this excerpt from Wikipedia:

“Among cocktails on the mezcal and tequila-focused drink menu is a ranch water with infused tequila, a mezcal old fashioned with Cazadores Reposado, and an Altos Plata Aperol spritz. Holy Ghost also serves a drink with bubblegum-infused vodka.

The bar has a 400-bottle agave collection and also serves beer, wine (including sparkling varieties), and low-ABV and non-alcoholic drinks made with drinking vinegars, Seedlip, and syrups. One mocktail has gin, ginger, hibiscus, and raspberry, and another is a whiskey chai.”

Quite often in these posts, I go into a detailed description of the bar, but in this case the photos below convey it better than a narrative.  Evidently, the total refurbishing of the bar was done through a collaboration between Three-on-a-Match Bar Group and Guerilla Development Co. both of which are very innovative firms. 

A principal in the Match Group is Ezra Ace Caraeff – a well-known figure in Portland and former Music Editor for the Portland Mercury.

I always try to visit an establishment twice before doing my review and in November, I returned – again with Abbey Foundation Board members, John Meek, John Limb and Gene Dieringer.

Both Meek and Limb are recent Board Presidents and we affectionately refer to them as First and Second John, although I avoided my inclination of an initial toast of:

“In the beginning was the Word…..”

While the Holy Ghost doesn’t serve food, it shares part of the building with The Electric – a pizzeria and 28 Tigers – a dumpling and noodle shop. There is a nice patio with a fire pit that is very popular with patrons and the social media reviews of the offerings are quite positive.

There’s good street parking available and the only real complaint is that the acoustics aren’t great and carrying a conversation can be a problem, although we didn’t experience that. It’s also sometimes challenging to find a seat.

Portland is fortunate to have the Three on a Match Bar Group which appears to have the same mission as Portland entrepreneurs and “bar revivalists” Marcus Archambeault and Warren Boothby.

The other Three on a Match bars are 

 

Paydirt

Tough Luck

Hi-Top Tavern

Stay tuned for a review of the Hi-Top which I visited late in 2024 and is another quality Portland neighborhood bar.

Cheers and Happy New Year

External Photo Attribution

#1. – #2. Holy Ghost Bar Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/holyghostbar/photos).

#3.  Pub at the End of the Universe Facebook Page (PUB at the END of the Universe | Portland, OR | Shows, Schedules, and Directions | ReverbNation).

#4.  Public Domain – Wikipedia Commons (File:The Bar-Kays 1968 press photo.jpg – Wikimedia Commons).  This work is in the public domain in the United States because it was published in the United States between 1929 and 1977, inclusive, without a copyright notice. Author: Distributed by Stax Records. The Bar-Kays in a press photo from the late 1960s.  – 1968.

Destiny of the Dives!

(Welcome back to Thebeerchaser.  Since this is a long post, if you are seeing it through an e-mail, please visit the blog by clicking on the title above to see all of the photos and the narrative is not clipped or shortened.)

My beloved City is a MESS!

Portland, Oregon – the Rose City – again made national news last week because of continuing riots.   The city has served as an unfortunate national example of the most contentious and continuous riots/demonstrations since March.

A riot in August and still going on….

Many of those participating are exercising their First Amendment rights and feel strongly about the causes eliciting their participation.

That said, many just revel in  looting, indiscriminate violence and attacking law enforcement officers and demonstrators opposed to their views – if they even have them.

The question is how long does this continue especially given the impact on downtown businesses, many of which are small family-owned enterprises.   A 1/24 headline in  Oregonian entitled, “Pedestrians Vanish from Downtown” stated that foot traffic is down 80% from 2019.

Economist, Bill Conerly

Well known Oregon economist, Bill Conerly, describes the current situation and the implications in an excellent article in Forbes Magazine entitled “Death Of A City – The Portland Story.”

The impressive high-rise building in which I worked for twenty five years now has a fence around it to prevent vandalism and Starbucks and other vendors have disappeared from its lobby. (They were possibly going to remove it after the Inauguration.)

PacWest Center –Now fenced off and mostly vacant lobby.

This led the Oregonian in a January 22, story to ask, “What are we Marching for?  On inauguration days in Portland, protestors and observers wonder alike.”

“An on-the-ground view of Wednesday’s protest shows the lack of cohesion, the divergent ideas of what constitutes free speech in Portland and the turbulence of the crowd…..’I don’t know where the %*#% I’m going, but I don’t give a *&^%,’ yelled Princess Warner (20)……’This is the worst *&^% march I’ve ever attended,’ another one yelled.”

Other than hoping that someone shows Princess the *&^%$ way to Disneyland, I won’t make any other comments except to say, the riots are a primary factor contributing to the demise of my beloved dive bars (and other businesses.)

A grunge bar with character…

Just a few blocks away from where this unlawful assembly occurred and my former office, is the diminutive Yamhill Pub – not a dive, but a noted grunge bar that I featured in 2015 – home of $1.50 PBR Happy Hours.

In my last post I wrote about the GoFundMe campaign to save the Yamhill – struggling to survive based on pandemic considerations and restrictions.  Although the pub had a Facebook post on January 5th, nobody answered the phone tonight (Friday) – not a good sign.

https://thebeerchaser.com/2021/01/07/leaving-2020-in-good-taste/

The grunge bar interior at the Yamhill

The Concern….

I have written about dive bars before in Thebeerchaser – first trying to define them in 2011 – “Analyzing Dive Bars Head First” but also periodically citing the concern about their continuing existence.  A Portland Mercury article in 2016 featuring the Portland Dive Bar Preservation Society stated:

“Portland’s lost a bunch of dive bars recently. A few were absolute shitholes that deserved to disappear, but most were victims of circumstance and change. A number of other bars have changed ownership and been fancied up to suit the modern market. Dive bars, if not endangered, are at the very least under threat.”

This 2016 piece listed twelve classic Portland dives that might be endangered:

Reel’ M Inn, Billy Rays, Kenton Social Club, Georges, the Trap, Ship Ahoy, Blue Diamond, Tavern on Denver, Checkered Flag, My Father’s Place, Slims, Water Trough Saloon and the Lariat Lounge

Billy Ray’s – Still a Neighborhood Institution

The good news is that of these, only two have closed permanently – Tavern on Denver and the Water Trough Saloon although the legendary Reel ‘M Inn – known for its fried chicken and jojos since 1994 – is closed indefinitely.  Fortunately, the others are still pouring cheap Budweiser to regulars.

West Coast Dave Hicks at the Reel M Inn

That said, every week one can read about other bars or breweries that have not weathered the pandemic lockdowns or the depressed economy.  The following January article from Portland Eater gives a fairly extensive list of the bars and eateries (about eighty) that have closed since the Pandemic.

I would add to that list the following three bars:  the Old Gold, Paydirt and the Oregon Public House (closed indefinitely.)

Since the Oregon Public House was an innovative community experiment, we hope that later this year they will reopen and not only serve good beer, but also continue their support of deserving non-profit organizations in accordance with their motto – “Have a Pint – Change the World.”

“Have a Pint – Change the World!”

For memories sake, I will just mention a few closures of the almost 400 bars and breweries visited and reviewed by Thebeerchaser since 2011 and the links will take you to the reviews if your are interested. There are two on the list of closures that I will highlight, because they break my heart and if you read the reviews I wrote, you will understand why (Links over the name)

Crackerjacks Pubthis wonderful pub – “a beloved dive bar and pizzeria for more than 30 years” – I visited twice in 2014 and was the closest to a Cheers ambiance of any in the ten years I’ve been on this exploration of watering holes.   

Thebeerchaser outside one of his favorite stops on the Tour

Sam and Jimmy – two gems met on Thebeerchaser’s Tour

The first visit was with my good friend, “West Coast Dave Hicks” and not only was the food great – as it was on the second visit – but the Manager – Sam and the cook, Jimmy were wonderful and friendly people.

The Tanker Bar – this beloved dive bar at the east end of Portland’s Barmuda Triangle “spent the last decade serving cheap well drinks and airing Blazer games.” 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of my most frequent Beerchasing companions – Portland lawyer, Jim Westwood and former Beerchaser-of-the-Quarter – whose mom was my high school Latin teacher for two years, accompanied me in 2013 and also translated the motto – in Latin on the bar’s logo – for me “In heaven there is no beer, so that’s why we drink it here.”

The regulars will miss the Naughty Bingo Nights each Tuesday which had a signature cocktail list featuring The Naughty Bingo Martini.  Jesse, the bartender, was a class act and helped make this early stop on my tour of bars a memorable one.

Jesse and Jim Westwood share stories at the corner of the bar

Sidecar 11 – this upscale “hole in the wall” bar visited in 2013, was not one of the most memorable, but distinguished itself with signature cocktails and an  impressive wine list.  The bar also featured great art by local artists.

One of the many good bars on Portland’s Mississippi Ave, Sidecar 11 closed “after years selling barrel-aged cocktails and whiskey flights.”  It also had a beautiful backbar displaying an incredible array of whiskeys.

The General and Aaron

As usual, the bartender, Aaron, was friendly and I also enjoyed my companion, retired lawyer and Air Force National Guard General, Larry Paulson, who after he left our law firm became the Executive Director of the Port of Vancouver until his retirement.

Portland Brewing – This one is also based on sentiment because my former law firm (Schwabe Williamson & Wyatt) represented them for many years.  Our partner, John Guinasso, who provided excellent legal counsel to the Brewery for many years, would periodically bring a case of their flagship beer – MacTarnahan’s Amber Ale – to the office on Friday afternoons and we would toast the end of the week.

The brewery was founded in 1986 and has flourished with a great taproom and restaurant:

“(In 2008,) it was sold to Vermont’s Magic Hat Brewing and then this entity was acquired by North American Breweries in 2010 and based in Rochester, New York. Two years later in 2012 this conglomerate of breweries was purchased by Florida Ice & Farm Co., based in Costa Rica.”) 

And that, my Beerchaser friends, illustrates why we should be concerned with the future of independent breweries as well as the neighborhood dive bar.

A Hint of Optimism

I’ll close with at least some good news.  A number of existing bars and breweries – those with a combination of sufficient space, adequate capital and management creativity and just plain grit – have either expanded or innovated to stay open and in some cases, grow and prosper.  Below are some captions for the stories on these enterprises:

Buoy Tap Room – Expansion Planned

Astoria’s Buoy Beer and Pilot House Distilling Are Preparing for Growth Along the Columbia River – Willamette Week (wweek.com)

http://Migration Brewing Is Opening Its Fourth Location in the Former Hopworks Space on North Williams Avenue – Willamette Week (wweek.com)

Produce Row Cafe Has Reopened Its Patio for Service After a Two-Month Closure – Willamette Week (wweek.com)

The great patio at the reopened Produce Row

The Owners of Roscoe’s Have Turned an Old-School Chinese Restaurant Into the Craft Cocktail Bar North Portland Has Long Needed – Willamette Week (wweek.com)

Beerchaser Regular Westwood at pre-pandemic Beerchase at Mad Hanna

https://www.wweek.com/bars/2020/12/16/one-northeast-portland-dive-bars-plan-for-surviving-the-pandemic-transitioning-into-a-general-store/

The owners of Mad Hanna have come up with one of the most innovative ideas by integrating a new General Store adjacent to the bar and I would bet that it will continue to thrive after the pandemic is over.

If you have not checked out this wonderful neighborhood-dive bar, you should definitely put it on your list and try their $4.50 Happy Hour peanut butter and jelly sandwich.

I am grateful to my friend Hillary Barbour, Director of Strategic Initiatives at Burgerville. who introduced it to me and I returned with Beerchaser regular, Jim Westwood. (And Northwesterners, if you have not tried Burgerville take-out during the pandemic, you are missing out.)

And you can see others examples.  For instance, last weekend Church Bar – whose motto is “Eat Drink and Repent” – did a live, virtual concert entitled, “Save Church Bar.”

Mansfield toasting 95 patents at Church

I certainly hope this innovative bar with great ambiance survives so my former Schwabe colleague, Intellectual Property attorney, Jon Mansfield, can again post his 95 Patents in commemoration of Martin Luther’s 1517 masterpiece “Ninety-five Theses” on the entrance.

16th Century Theologian Martin Luther

As you can see by the example from the photo above while Jon was drinking a cocktail at the bar, he and the great theologian have a striking resemblance!

Onward and Upward

But all of us – whether in Portland, Boston or Amsterdam – can help these establishments to survive until they reopen and normal Beerchasing can occur.

Get a gift card, or order takeout – food and/or a growler (tip well!)  (The Oregon Legislature passed a bill this month in Special Session in which bars can now sell cocktails-to-go provided some food is purchased with the highball.)  Or just call the owner or manager, offer encouragement and tell them you will return when you can.

Because the alternative, if many of these independent entrepreneurs go out of business, is their locations to be absorbed by Applebee’s or a bar such as the Yard House – a sterile chain of bars owned by the same corporate entity as the Olive Garden and in my 2016 review I concluded that it did not “measure up.”  (Are you prepared for unlimited garlic bread with your pint of beer?)

Portland’s Yard House – Is this the kind of entrance you want to see on your neighborhood bar?

Wear Your Mask, Stay Safe and Blessings in the New Year.