Stride-for-Stride with Seattle Brew?

800px-Rainier_and_Olympic_Beers_(1895)_(ADVERT_408)

Welcome back to Thebeerchaser. If you are seeing this post through an e-mail, please visit the blog by clicking on the title above to see all of the photos and so the narrative is not clipped or shortened.  External photo attribution at the end of the post.  (#1 – #3)

Nostalgia…

When I started Thebeerchaser blog in 2011, the goal was to visit and review bars and breweries just in the Portland metropolitan area.  I figured with hundreds to choose, I would have new options for years.  However, we started traveling in retirement…

Janet and I could not resist the allure of watering holes throughout the State of Oregon and then when we took some road trips – across the country.   We even hit a few, as you can see from the photos below, in our 2013 Rick Steve’s Best of Europe Tour where we visited six countries in twenty-one days.

These included the Devils Forest Pub and Bacaro Jazz in Venice, Amsterdam’s historic Café Karpershoek and the Horner Pub in Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland.

We can’t forget the Miscellanea Pub in Rome and one of our favorites – Hell’s Tavern (Zur Höll) in Rautenberg, Germany – as one reviewer stated, “I didn’t think Hell would be so awesome!”

Others included the Publican Pub in Beaune, France and in Vernazza, Italy (The Cinque’ Terra) – the Blue Marlin Bar..  

So I abandoned the logo that Teresa Lovegren, my former assistant, so generously provided when I started Beerchasing and prevailed upon my fraternity brother and friend of almost sixty years, Jud Blakely, to design a new logo. 

Jud’s great effort has stood the test of time although my hair color has changed slightly.

But in reminiscing recently, I realized that although I’ve visited and reviewed over 400 watering holes, throughout the USA, only a handful of those have been in my neighboring state – Washington.

Perhaps one reason is my older daughter, Lisa and her husband, Jamie, who live in Lake Forest Park have two beautiful granddaughters and although Beerchasing is an avid pursuit, it would never replace time we can spend seeing these two little angels.

On one of our trips in 2012, before the granddaughters came along, we visited The Pour House in Port Townsend and then not another pub in the Evergreen State until 2016 when we stopped at the Ice Harbor Brewery in Kennewick on the way to a wedding in Coeur d’Alene.

Then a three-year lapse until a visit to the Loowit Brewery in downtown Vancouver – right across the Columbia River from Portland. 

I was with my retired colleague “General” Larry Paulson, who I first met as a lawyer when we both worked in the Schwabe Williamson & Wyatt firm.  He then served with distinction as the Executive Director of the Port of Vancouver when we

We affectionally called him “General” because he also had a career and retired as a Brigadier General in the Oregon Air National Guard.  (#4 – #5)

Assuming you’re still with me on this Beerchase down Memory Lane, fast forward to a trip in the fall of 2019 when we visited Lisa and her family.  Her husband, Jamie, his brother, Rob and dad, Jon and I hit the historic Caroline Tavern and then had dinner at Elliot Bay Brewery’s Lake City Pub.  (#6)

2019-07-22 20.10.07

I finished that trip the next night with a memorable visit to Daphne’s in Edmonds in which I got to meet the legendary bartender, Desmond van Rensberg

The bar is a hole-in-wall, but Desmond’s personality radiates and seems to expand the structure!  (#7 – #9)

Coming out of COVID

Jump ahead four years and the full-scale resumption of Beerchasing after the pandemic waned. Another Seattle trip provided an opportunity to visit two new establishments.

The granddaughters were both in school, so it didn’t interfere with my time to visit them and see a swim meet, a piano recital and marvel at their wonderful personalities.

As happens on a number of occasions, the enjoyment of spending time with my Beerchasing companions heightened the discovery of a new bar or brewery – in this case Salish Sea Brewing Pub in Edmonds and Stack 571 Burger and Whiskey Bar in Bothell.

Salish Sea Brewing

Salish Sea Brewing is owned by a husband and wife team – Jeff and Erika Barnett who started their enterprise in 2013 and were foresighted when they purchased  American Brewery.

They acquired a competitor brewery and taproom including brewing equipment – a short distance away in Edmonds – in 2021 American struggled during the pandemic.

“The purchase of American was made possible by Salish Sea’s ability to navigate the pandemic. The brewery’s downtown location resulted in regular walk-up business and, despite having a limited distribution network, Salish Sea made use of 32-ounce mason jars to sell beer-to-go.”

The brewing equipment was moved down the street to what is now the Salish Sea Boathouse near Edmond’s picturesque waterfront. (#10 – #11)

The brewpub was very pleasant and it’s obvious from the reviews and just observing, that they have built a loyal community in and around Edmonds.  Dawn, our friendly server, told us about a running club which uses the pub as a base and it is definitely family oriented.

I was there with my colleague on the Board of the Abbey Foundation of Oregon, Rex Wardlaw who lives in Edmonds although he and his wife migrate to Kona for most of the bad weather months in Washington – a good portion of the year.

I didn’t eat but Rex had a great looking green salad and we split a gigantic soft pretzel ($11).  Salish has a good varied menu of moderately priced pub food ranging from soups, salads, burgers, flatbreads and standbys such as Fish & Chips and Mac & Cheese in addition to a nice kid’s menu.

Photo May 24 2023, 2 36 40 PM

I didn’t bother to write down the specific beers either of us had, but we were able to choose from eleven of Salish’s own beers and both of us enjoyed our drafts.  

As was the case with my Beerchasing companion the next day at lunch, I always learn a lot from just listening to Rex who had a remarkable career in investment banking and wealth management – one reason he is now Chair of the Abbey’s Investment Committee which manages its endowment fund.

He ran his own investment research and consulting company for ten years after retiring as managing director/portfolio manager at Wells, US Trust and then First Republic.

Rex attended NW Nazarene Collège and then earned his MBA at the University of Oregon. (#12 – #16)

And Rex’s self demands are not modest.  For example, in 2015, he successfully completed the Swiss Jura Challenge on a 4000 feet of daily climbing.

Rex is a man of faith – he also completed two pilgrimages – hiking  the Portuguese Caminho from Lisbon to Santiago, Spain in 2018.

He followed with the Via Francigena Pilgrimage from Canterbury, UK to Roma, Italia in 2022 – solo hiking the first 560 miles of the VF, a pilgrimage route incorporating parts of the ancient Roman Road across France and Switzerland. 

As we were leaving the brewpub, Rex asked me if I wanted to go for a twenty-mile jog to work off our beer and pretzel.  I politely demurred… 

Stack 571 Burger and Whiskey Bar

When Jon Magnusson asked me if I wanted to go to lunch at Stack 571 in Bothell, I was curious about the derivation of the name.  A bit of internet searching revealed that it’s named after the ASARCO  smokestack – once the world’s largest which had an interesting demise according to Historylink.org.

“At 12:40 p.m. on January 17, 1993, demolition experts collapse the landmark American Smelter and Refining Company (ASARCO) smokestack as part of a Superfund toxic cleanup of the old copper smelter in Ruston.

As many as 100,000 people gather to witness the detonation that, with one push of a plunger, sets off charges that in eight seconds reduces the structure to rubble and dust.”   (#17)

2_DMDHPA_asarco

I wondered why the bar’s President and Operating PartnerAttila Szabo, chose that symbol for the name of  his new venture in 2016.

(Further searching revealed that it is because their burgers are “stacked” or tall).  They have five locations including Vancouver, WA  and emphasize organic, free-range and locally sourced ingredients. 

Just as Rex Wardlaw’s intellect and experience is worth noting, my older daughter’s father-in-law always makes a very stimulating dining companion.  

While Jon ate one of the Stack’s good cheeseburgers (single patty…) I had a chicken sandwich with what I assume was a diminutive chicken.  The French fries and onion rings were delicious, although I don’t know under what conditions they were grown.

Jon Magnusson is now a Senior Principal with the Magnusson Klemencic Associates  structural engineering firm which he joined in 1976 and:

“….advanced to CEO, and ultimately Chairman of the Board, a role he held for 18 years. Now a Senior Principal, Jon has been structural engineer-in-charge for over $2.5 billion of construction in the last 10 years alone.

He has worked on projects in 47 states and 49 countries, including major sports stadiums, healthcare facilities, signature convention centers, and high-rise buildings. 

Over the course of his career, Jon has been an invited speaker for over 240 presentations and participated in more than 100 media interviews.”

Jon also donates a lot of time and travels extensively for professional associations.  He’s a second generation Washington Husky (both his son and my daughter share the same alma mater) and we always enjoy talking about the Pac12

The one football game I attended with him in Seattle (in the renovated and expanded Husky Stadium that his firm managed as they did when it expanded in 1982), the Huskies clobbered my Beavers.

This was also the case when son, Jamie, and I attended the same rivalry in 2019 in Reser Stadium in Corvallis. (Jon’s firm also did the work on the expansion and improvement of Reser at OSU last year.) (#18 – #21)

The MKS portfolio includes NFL, NBA, NHL, MLS, MLB, and collegiate projects where they have provided engineering services to 56 major facilities.

These include Safeco Field and Lumen Field in Seattle as well as Hayward Stadium in Eugene, Levi’s Stadium in Santa Clara (Home of the 49’ers and Guangzhou International Arena in China to name a few.

Stack 571 had about fifteen beers on tap including three of their own although they say nothing about their brewing capabilities on their website. 

But what intrigued Jon and me is the claim that their selection of whiskeys exceeds 100 although the sign at Bothell indicated 179!  The availability of a  “Whiskey Passport “ may merit a return trip(s). (#22 – #23)

Since there was still time before the granddaughters got home from school, Jon asked if I wanted to come over and review the engineering stress equation (σ =F/A0).  I politely demurred….

In closing…

I started this long post with some nostalgia including three historic images of Seattle breweries that were a mainstay during my college years – Rainer and Olympia

I realized that my Beerchasing adventures in Washington and more specifically, Seattle, have lacked energy and will do my best in the future to stay “Stride-for-Stride with Seattle Brew.” (#24)

750px-Seattle_Slew

External Photo Attribution

#1. Public Domain – Wikimedia Commons (File:Olympia Beer (1906) (ADVERT 444).jpeg – Wikimedia Commons)  This work is in the public domain in the United States because it was published (or registered with the U.S. Copyright Office) before January 1, 1928.  Author:  Olympia Brewing Co.   8 May 1906.

#2.  Public Domain – Wikimedia Commons (File:Rainier and Olympic Beers (1895) (ADVERT 408).jpeg – Wikimedia Commons)  This work is in the public domain in the United States because it was published (or registered with the U.S. Copyright Office) before January 1, 1928. Author:  Seattle Brewing and Malting Co.  18 May 1895.

#3. Public Doman – Wikimedia Commons (File:Rainier Beer (1903) (ADVERT 65).jpeg – Wikimedia Commons)  This work is in the public domain in the United States because it was published (or registered with the U.S. Copyright Office) before January 1, 1928. Author:  Seattle Brewing and Malting Co.  19 December 1903

#4.  The Columbian (https://www.columbian.com/news/2012/apr/29/port-of-vancouver-paulson-pleased-with-what-hes-le/?print)  29 April 2012.

#5. Oregon Live (https://www.oregonlive.com/clark-county/2011/03/port_of_vancouver_head_larry_paulson_will_retire_next_year

_deputy_named_next_executive_director.html)

#6.  Caroline Tavern Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057254417974&sk=photos). 

#7.  Facebook  Desmond  Facebook  https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=363412525792143&set=pb.100063701944401.-2207520000.&type=3

#8.  Facebook   https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=3800244813342206&set=pb.100063701944401.-2207520000.  exterior

#9.  Facebook https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=398421555624573&set=pb.100063701944401.-2207520000.&type=3   interior

.#10.  Facebook – Salish Sea Brewing (https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=708879491245450&set=pb.100063702153820.-2207520000).

# 11.  Facebook – Salish Sea Brewing (https://www.facebook.com/SalishSeaBrewingCompany/photos/pb.100063702153820.-2207520000./1877741669009209/?type=3

#12.  Public Domain – Wikimedia Commons (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jura_Mountains#/media/File:Juragebirge.JPG)  This file is in the public domain in the United States because it was solely created by NASA. NASA copyright policy states that “NASA material is not protected by copyright unless noted”. Author:  Jacques Descloitres,  MODIS Rapid Response Team, NASA/GSFC 22 October 2002.

#13.  Wikimedia Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Trek_820_(9518781581).jpg) Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license.  Author: order_242 from Chile  3 August 2013.

#14.   Wikimedia Commons (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portuguese_Way#/media/File:Caminos_Santiago_actuales.svg) By Paulusburg – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=74883466.

#15.  Wikimedia Commons (map) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_Francigena#/media/File:VF_Ruta_completa_con_principales_poblaciones.svg.)  By Paulusburg – Own work con los datos proporcionados por Cristina Menghini [1]; Switzerland Mobility [2] y AEVF [3], CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=45235532.

#16.  Wikimedia Commons (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_Francigena#/media/File:Via-Francigena-Signposts-In-Italy-2012.jpg)  By Bjørn Christian Tørrissen – Own work by uploader, http://bjornfree.com/galleries.html, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=23161344

#17. Washington Department of Ecology – Ruston Smoke Stack (http://(https://www.historylink.org/File/8744)

#18. – #19. Magnusson Klemencic Website (https://www.mka.com/people/)  

#20.  Wikimedia Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Husky_Rugby_Club_at_University_of_Washington.png) Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license.  Author: Will.Wheaton.Rugby.Arch  22 January 2022.

# 21.  Public Domain – Wikimedia Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:University_of_Washington_Block_W_logo_RGB_brand_colors.SVG )  This work is in the public domain in the United States because it was published (or registered with the U.S. Copyright Office) before January 1, 1928.  Author:  University of Washington 1902.

#22. – #23 Stack 571 Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10100790612460240&set=br.Abr-8zKssI_mhXble6zBKuoRiIiSOQqkUegvw5UcOldoULcofb7Pegw)

24.  Wikimedia Commons (File:Seattle Slew.jpg – Wikimedia Commons) Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license.  Author: Pawneese   7 September 2015.

 

The Beerchaser Goes International…

Our final night in Paris

Our final night in Paris

“The world is a book, and those who do not travel, read only a page.”

Although Thebeerchaser and his wife, Janet, did not have these words by St. Augustine in mind when signing up for a Rick Steves’ “21-Day Best of Europe Tour, they had new meaning when we returned – for we had never been to Europe previously. And after the journey, we felt like we had read a Classic.  It was an intense and absolutely wonderful way to hit the highlights of that continent.

Most of the recommendations in this blog are for taverns, but there’s an exception for Rick Steves – whether it’s a guided tour, his travel consulting or Steves’ publications, check them out with the link above.  You can see from the map, we hit six countries in 21-days and our wonderful tour director, Lisa Friend, was a mentor, history teacher and yes – a  “Friend”….

Rick Steves

Route of the 21-day Best of Europe Tour (Parens indicate number of nights in each stop)

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The best bus driver in Europe - Richard - with Lisa Friend

The best bus driver in Europe – Richard – with Lisa Friend

We traveled by bus – 28 of us, on a classy sixty-seat bus.

Charles Kuralt once observed, “Thanks to the Interstate Highway System, it is now possible to travel across the country from coast to coast without seeing anything.”

However, the bus was a superb way to travel through Europe, and the scenery – whether viewing castles through the Rhine Valley in Germany, the Mediterranean in Italy’s Cinque Terra or the Lauterbrunnen Valley in Switzerland – was breathtaking.

Since I was away from Portland, I tried to hit one bar or public house – even if just for a photo – in most of the stops along our journey.

The tour of bars, pubs and taverns continued on the trip

The tour of bars, pubs and taverns continued on the trip

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And there are some differences, which brought home, so to speak, why I love Portland bars.  Those in Europe tend to be part of a hotel or restaurant – “Cafes” – if you will, rather than just a neighborhood watering hole for beer drinkers like the approximately 550 to 750 bars in Portland – depending on your source and the definition used.

When we return to Europe, I will do some research before the trip using a good website – to better explore Europe’s best bars:

The Classic (and my favorite) Dive - The Ship Tavern in Multnomah Village

The Classic (and my favorite) Dive Bar – The Ship Tavern in Multnomah Village

http://besteuropebars.com/category/bars/

While not having a lot of time to search for them, I didn’t see a great dive bar in Europe – one that validates this apt description of these joints, to wit:  “Like saints, dive bars should always be guilty until proven innocent — they always stagger  on the precipice of becoming popular and thus ruined.”  (Willamette Week 2010 – “One Hundred Favorite Bars”)

In the next several posts, I’ll include some pictures and brief comments from the establishments below visited on our trip.  Besides the cafes and pubs, other highlights are pictures from some of the wonderful churches and cathedrals at which I marveled – most of which were not on our tour, but I sought out in the free time.  A perfect example is St. James (Jakobs) Lutheran Church in the historic German city of Rothenburg.

St. Jakobs (James) in Rothenberg

St. James (Jakobs) in Rothenburg

Oh, the history!  The church was built between 1325 to 1485 and in 1525 the peasant leader, Florian Geyer, read aloud the articles of the revolting peasants from its west chancel.

St. James Cathedral, built between 1311-1484. The church was consecrated in 1485 by the Bishop of Würzburg.

St. James Church, built between 1311-1484 – consecrated in 1485 by the Bishop of Würzburg.

   

in Rautenberg, Germany
The Holy Blood altarpiece of the Wurzburg wood-carver, Tillman Riemenschneider, carved 1500 to 1505 and located in St. James Church.

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The cafes or bars I “visited” included the following:

Amsterdam, Netherlands – Cafe Karpershoek and the Heineken Museum “Experience”      

Arnhem, Netherlands – The Bier Brewery at the Arnhem Open Air Museum

Rothenburg, Germany – Zur Holl (Hell’s) Tavern

Venice, Italy – The Devil’s Forest Pub

Vernazza, Italy (The Cinque’ Terra) – The Blue Marlin Café

Rome, Italy – Miscellanea Café

Laterbrunnen, Switzerland – Horner Pub and the bar at the summit of Schilthorn in the Bernese Alps

Beaune, France – Publican Bar

Paris, FranceThe Beer Station and La Vin Coeur Café

Our flight to Europe took us to Amsterdam and we flew home on a flight – originating in Paris with a brief Amsterdam layover.  Both of the long flights (ten and eleven hours) to and from Amsterdam were Delta non-stop and excellent flights.  We were fortunate that the young children on the jet behaved wonderfully and a long flight with kids brings to mind the story of the businessman who learned never to try to be nice by playing peek-a-boo with a child sitting in the row in front of him.

There’s no end to the game and he finally yelled at the young boy, “Look kid, it’s always going to be me – okay……..?”

The museum has on display 8,000 objects of art and history, from their total collection of 1 million The Ri  Museum in Amsterdam with objects from the years 1200–2000, among which are some masterpieces by Rembrandt, Frans Hals, and Johannes Vermeer

The Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam which has on display 8,000 objects of art and history, from their total collection of 1 million.  Included are objects from the years 1200–2000, among which are some masterpieces by Rembrandt, Frans Hals, and Johannes Vermeer

Amsterdam is an amazing city – from the hordes of cyclists – none of whom wear helmets and definitely command the right of way over pedestrians, to the Red Light District we passed through on our walking tour – to the coffee houses where cannabis is a mainstay on the menu.  The city actually has more kilometers of canals than Venice.

In Haarlem, where we stayed two nights – a 35-minute train ride from Amsterdam – we ate in a café in a strucutre with a foundation laid about 1500.  During the Spanish siege in 1572, there were about 50 brewing companies in the city, while 45 years later  the city numbered about one hundred breweries.

Amsterdam Pubs, Etc. – There are a number of bars which claim to be the oldest in Amsterdam, among them Café Karpershoek, only a few blocks from the massive and historic Central Station (rail terminal) and the Red Light District.  We stopped in for a quick Heineken and enjoyed the ambiance of our first European bar.

Café Karpershoek in Amsterdam

Café Karpershoek in Amsterdam

Karpershoek,

The slogan on the beam says, "          "

The Dutch slogan on the beam says, “A day without laughter is a day wasted.”

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We concurred with the February review on Trip Advisor stating, “I visited the Café Karpershoek, which claims to be the oldest pub in Amsterdam, (starting in 1606). The staff was friendly and the beer, while more expensive than many places, was quite good.”          

The Heiniken "Experience"

The Heineken “Experience”

Speaking of Heineken, it’s the world’s third largest brewer, with 125 breweries in more than 70 countries and employs approximately 66,000.  The sign on the building stating “Heineken Brewery” is not accurate – this site, as a brewery, closed in 1988.

The Heineken Experience, however, is a large museum and tasting room that we walked by on our way back from the Rijksmuseum and the Anne Frank House.  Time precluded a visit, but the reviews on various web sites are favorable although the 16 Euro price seemed pretty steep:

This is not just a museum it really is an experience.  Set on four levels this former brewery has everything you need to know about the Heineken Brand. History, information, tasting areas, videos, games and even a roller coaster type video ride that’s very funny and informative.  At the end of the tour you get two drinks of your choice..”

One other thought on airport security while it is freshThose who complain about TSA procedures in America, should be thankful – after going through security in Paris, we had two more encounters before boarding our flight in Amsterdam even though we had not left the secure area.  The first guard who complimented me on my belt did not mitigate the statement of the next official who said, “You look a lot older than your passport photo.” – taken this January.  And I will avoid conveying the awkwardness of trying to extricate a credit card from my money-belt, after it set off the alarm.

Wendie, Roxie and Janet with Hans, the bartender from the Devils Pub
Roxie, Wendy and Janet with Hans, the bartender, at the Devils Forest Pub in Venice

I’ll be back on the next post to talk about pubs in Arnhem, Rothenburg and Venice including the Devil’s Forest Pub in Italy’s Floating City shown here with two of our great new friends from the tour.

 

Our tour group in front of the Grote Kirk (Large Church) in Haarlem’s Central Market Square – right next to our hotel