Get Your Thrill at the Top of the Hill

Welcome back to Thebeerchaser. If you are seeing this post through an e-mail, please visit the blog by clicking on the title at the top to see all of the photos and so the narrative is not clipped or shortened. (External photo attribution at the end of the post) 

Those of you who follow this blog know that I write about both bars and breweries. Having posted reviews of 400+ since I started this retirement hobby fourteen years ago, my favorite genre is dive bars.

That said, while my wonderful wife loves breweries, dive bars are not on her dance card. (I might add, her definition of a dive bar and mine are quite different.)  One notable exception was on a 2016 road trip in California to Yosemite National Park where we spent one night in Sacramento and I persuaded her to raise a mug in the world’s most literal dive bar. 

While at the bar, I asked bartender, Jason, how the title of the bar was derived. He immediately responded, “Take a glance upward. You see that 7,800 gallon aquarium? (To put in perspective, that would be about 503 kegs of beers.) A few nights each week, we also have “mermaids” swimming in that tank.  Now do you understand how we got our name.?” 

A Recently Discovered Portland Dive , But First….

Before I tell you about the Top of the Hill Tavern, my newest dive on Portland’s east side, it may be worth reminiscing (at least for me) about some of my Oregon favorites. Our travel has taken us to bars and breweries throughout the US and even a few in Europe, but it seems the best are close to Portland. (By the way, it’s a wonderful place to live….)

https://thebeerchaser.com/2024/02/02/dont-jump-when-you-can-dive/

In Portland dives, the PBR, Hamms and Budweiser flow like a mountain stream cascading down the slopes of Mount Hood in early spring. (#1)

The photos shown below are my five favorites – The Ship (2012), the Mock Crest Tavern (2012), Gil’s Speakeasy (2017), The Standard (2018) and Yur’s Bar and Grill (2020). 

Yet, I can’t forget the Oregon Coast where at these five watering holes, the frothy head in your mug is like a wave at its foamy crest just before crashing onto the pristine white sand before receding for another cycle. (#2)

Thats when on a 2014 Road trip with two friends (Dave Booher and Steve Larson), we hit twelve bars on the coast in 2.5 days with these four making the all-star list in addition to the Desdemona Club (The Dirty D) in Astoria in 2012. 

The Sportsman Pub and Grub (Pacific City), the Old Oregon Tavern (Lincoln City), Mad Dog Country Tavern (Newport) and the Tide Pool Inn (Depoe Bay) garnered the other four top spots. (#3)

I had driven by the Top of the Hill numerous times – an inconspicuous building with a large parking lot, but no other businesses or homes around. My intent last March was to visit it with my long-term Beerchasing friend, Hillary Barbour.

But I messed that one up and told her to meet me at the Hi-Top Tavern which is only 3.6 miles away or a nine-minute drive from Top of the Hill. We enjoyed the Hi-Top, but it was a classy neighborhood bar and definitely not a dive.  So, we resolved, the next time we Beerchased to dive at the Top of the Hill.  (And it was worth it.)

I’m a fast learner, so I cautioned Hillary that we were going to the Top of the Hill in NE Portland – not the bar with the same name in Kaimuki, Hawaii or Babe’s Boys Tavern at the Top of the Hill in Upper Marlboro, Maryland. 

Similarly, we were not going to raise a mug at Top of the Hill Bar in Cork, Ireland or at North Carolina’s first microbrewery, the Top of the Hill Brewery and Restaurant in Chapel Hill (which even has its own Wikipedia page.)

And just to rub it in, Hillary admonished me not to show up at Top O’Th’ Hill – a family-owned American bar in Bridgewater, New Jersey, even though they have an outstanding butternut squash soup.

But as you can see below, we did meet on a Saturday afternoon at the right watering hole and joined a few regulars in relishing the “ambiance.”

I’ve known Hillary since shortly after her graduation from Reed College in Portland, when she was a Research Intern for the City Club of Portland and I was on the Research Board. She has had an impressive career including almost twenty years working on the staff of  recently retired US Representative, Earl Blumenauer. (#4)

Subsequent jobs have been in marketing and strategic planning for both private and non-profit corporations. Friends call her “Hill,” so perhaps the venue that day was appropriate.

Our server, Amber, who is a long-time employee of the bar said the owner is a nice guy and they have a good group of regulars – a community. Amber was personable and welcoming.

Most of the Top of the Hill reviews are positive and it seems that people really like this laid-back place. People appreciate the low-key atmosphere, the pool tables and old-fashioned beer signs, the friendly staff and karaoke on Friday and Saturday. And they have a good juke box. Two reviews sum it up nicely:

I love this neighborhood bar! It has a cozy, comfy feel. All of the bartenders have made me feel welcome. Some of them have told me the owner is great to work for and that matters to me. It’s not fancy or extravagant by any means. Just a great place to hang out and get to know your neighbors. (Yelp 2023)

and

“Just a small trashy bar, but it’s my small trashy bar. The food is mediocre at best, and the pool tables are the worst I’ve ever played on, but the experience is like living in an episode of trailer park boys. Nobody is here to impress anyone, so everyone kinda lets their guard down more than usual, it’s a great place to meet people in a very casual setting.” (Restuarant Guru.com) (#5)

And you are not going to find less expensive pub food at many other places with a cheeseburger and side for $6.50 and large basket of fries or onion rings for $5.50.  A turkey sandwich with chips rings up for only $7.00 or a skad of wings for $5. Draft beers (a reasonable selection) are $5 to $6 with a buck off during Happy Hour.

Sundays are good with a rib dinner – four ribs with two good sides and bread for $18.  Want chicken instead of red meat, well the barbecued chicken dinner, sides and bread is the same deal. (#6)

I mentioned that Hillary graduated from Reed College – a liberal institution with outstanding academic credentials.  And the school made Portland headlines recently:

“Reed College students and alumni are grappling with the recent revelation that a campus security official provided federal investigators with personal information about a former student, ultimately resulting in his arrest. The disclosure has sparked significant backlash, particularly given the college’s reputation for inclusivity and its progressive values.

According to court records unsealed last week, FBI agents arrested Robert Jacob Hoopes, a 24-year-old Reed alumnus, on July 25. The records detail how Gary Granger, the college’s director of community safety, accessed an internal database containing personal information about students and alumni to hand over Hoopes’ name, address, and phone number. This cooperation allegedly occurred without a warrant or subpoena.”  (Reed College Campus Safety Newsletter)  (#7)

Granger was subsequently fired but given the misguided and unnecessary federal intervention to deploy the National Guard, Reed alums are wary that they may have been “identified.” 

There have been Blackhawk helicopters flying low over Portland neighborhoods and knowing Hillary might have been in that database, we searched the sky while walking to our cars. (After all she worked many years for a Democrat….) 

I have almost avoided political issues on this blog, but these times warrant a comment.

A Trump-appointed federal judge yesterday, temporarily blocked the National Guard deployment to Portland although there is no shortage of masked ICE troops at what have been largely peaceful demonstrations in the last year – basically some individual arrests by the Portland Police.

To put today’s protests into perspective, here’s what the data show:

“Arrests in 2020: 1,071. In 2025: Around 60 over the past four months.

Location in 2020: Across the city. Location in 2025: One to two blocks in South Portland.”   (Oregon Live October 5)

Portland faces significant issues – most notably homelessness. The violent and lengthy protests in 2020 were deplorable and our city still bears the scars, but that is clearly not the current situation.

Leave us alone to drink our good coffee and great craft beer and we will continue to work on resolving our problems civilly and locally. (#8 – #9)

Cheers

External Photo Attribution

#1.  WordPress generated AI image.

#2. Picsart.com AI (https://picsart.com/create/editor?category=miniapps&prompt=a+black+hawk+helicopter+with+an+x+over+it&projectId=68e1febafa021d2faa2b576d&app=t2i&version=1.86.2).

#3. Desdemona Club Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=275454077925770&set=pb.100063835381277.-2207520000&type=3).

#4. Public Domain – Wikimedia Commons (Earl Blumenauer, official portrait, 116th Congress 2 – Earl Blumenauer – Wikipedia) This United States Congress image is in the public domain. Author: House Creative Services, Kristie Baxter – 16 October 2019.

#5.  Yelp photos (https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/top-of-the-hill-tavern-portland).

#6. Wanderlog.com (https://wanderlog.com/place/details/3441887/top-of-the-hill-tavern).

#7. Wikimedia Commons (File:EliotHallReedCollege.jpg – Wikimedia Commons). Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic license.  Author: User.cacophony – 25 February 2007.

#8. Wikimedia Commons (File:Portland from Pittock Mansion October 2019 panorama 2.jpg – Wikimedia Commons). Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license. Author: King of Hearts – 28 October 2019.

#9. Picsart.com AI  (https://picsart.com/create/editor?category=miniapps&prompt=a+black+hawk+helicopter+with+an+x+over+it&projectId=68e1febafa021d2faa2b576d&app=t2i&version=1.86.2).

The Holy Ghost Bar – A Spiritual Progression

Welcome to Thebeerchaser. If you are seeing this post through an e-mail, please visit the blog by clicking on the title above to see all of the photos and so the narrative is not clipped or shortened. (External photo attribution at the end of the post #1 – #2)

I’ve been to a slew of bars and breweries in fourteen years of Beerchasing in which the establishment had a previous life – something distinctly different from a watering hole.

These have included automotive shops and garages, drycleaners and laundromats, printing shops and even lawyer offices and houses of ill repute (in one case, reportedly in the same quarters…)  In many cases, the bar or brewery was initially another drinking establishment that went out of business or changed ownership.

Such is the case of The Holy Ghost – opened in November 2022 in Southeast Portland at the busy intersection of 28th and Gladstone.  For decades, it was a funky dive bar – Pub at the End of the Universe operated by the McCormick family – notable Portland restauranters. It closed in 2017.

“(The developer) has been researching the building and says it seems to have been built in the 1920s or earlier and played home to four or so tenants over the years. It was once a pharmacy with a tavern alongside, and before it was named Pub at the End of the Universe…”  Portland Eater 12/15/17 (#3)

“Pub at the End of the Universe has been established for over 30 years by the McCormick family. A haven for all vibration that liked to chill out and be treated like family. The Pub has a unique atmosphere with multi levels and full bar, pool and darts.

The music scene dates back to late 80’s with rock and roll and metal bands opening up the ears and eyes of the Pub….We were creating a place where folks can get together and be creative with the Universe.”  Reverbnation.com

Why the Holy Ghost?

In 2024, I had two informal gatherings with colleagues involved with the Abbey Foundation of Oregon (I serve as VP of the Board).  I was looking for a new Beerchasing venue and thought a religious theme would be appropriate.  

Having already been to the wonderful Church Bar in 2013, I ruled that one out – maybe a good choice because in November, a patron was stabbed to death in the bar (The Oregonian.) https://thebeerchaser.com/2013/12/11/church-eat-drink-pray-repent/so

I also thought that the venerable Bar of the Gods one of the first bars I visited early in 2012 – only six months after I started this hobby – would be inappropriate so I narrowed it down. (Notice the prices on the BOG menu….)

The Bible Club and The Holy Ghost both get great reviews and had convenient locations, but the latter got the edge because of its martinis.  I met my former law firm colleague, Margaret Hoffman there and it was a good choice. 

Marget is now retired and besides being honored in her profession as a top product liability litigator (Oregon Super Lawyer and named as one of the Best Lawyers in America), Margaret is an outstanding human being.  She is also skilled at fly fishing and in her “spare time” spends additional court-time playing pickle-ball and traveling the world.

The Holy Ghost has a bright and attractive interior that has been totally refurbished since the Pub at the End of the Universe days.  The only reference to elements of the trinity in the former were vodka, wine and beer. 

Sid Chi, the friendly Bar Manager, since it opened in 2022, said the bar was named “after some song the owners liked.” Subsequent research revealed that it emanated from The Bar- Kays:

“The Bar-Kays is an American funk band formed in 1964. The band had dozens of charting singles from the 1960s to the 1980s, including ‘Soul Finger’ (US Billboard Hot 100 number 17, R&B number 3) in 1967, ‘Son of Shaft’ (R&B number 10) in 1972, and ‘Boogie Body Land’ (R&B number 7) in 1980.”  (Wikipedia) (#4)

The_Bar-Kays_1968_press_photo

(In 1978, they had a hit single “The Holy Ghost” that rose to #9 on the US Rhythm and Blue Chart.)

“Your love is like the Holy Ghostshakin’ all in my bonesI never felt such a feelin’In all the days I been round, yeahWhenever I feel the pressure(Jah!) I can’t seem to hypnotize my mind(Well!) Your love is like the Holy GhostAnd I feel like I’ve been born a second time.”  (Genius.com)

Margaret and I are both martini drinkers (me with gin and her with vodka) so we didn’t take advantage of their extensive cocktail/mocktail selection which draws rave reviews.  And the Holy Ghost Gin Fizz may be worth returning:

“We’re really into the idea of the gin fizz. It’s a great drink but no one wants to make it because it takes so long to shake,” Caraeff says, describing the five-minute shaking process it takes to mix a proper version of the New Orleans classic.

So, the team purchased a number of bubble tea shaking machines to do the work for them. It still takes a solid five minutes to make, a fact that is outlined on the menu, but that’s just part of the charm.”  (Portland Eater)

Cocktail “Heaven”

But the gin fizz is not the only innovative concoction as evidenced by this excerpt from Wikipedia:

“Among cocktails on the mezcal and tequila-focused drink menu is a ranch water with infused tequila, a mezcal old fashioned with Cazadores Reposado, and an Altos Plata Aperol spritz. Holy Ghost also serves a drink with bubblegum-infused vodka.

The bar has a 400-bottle agave collection and also serves beer, wine (including sparkling varieties), and low-ABV and non-alcoholic drinks made with drinking vinegars, Seedlip, and syrups. One mocktail has gin, ginger, hibiscus, and raspberry, and another is a whiskey chai.”

Quite often in these posts, I go into a detailed description of the bar, but in this case the photos below convey it better than a narrative.  Evidently, the total refurbishing of the bar was done through a collaboration between Three-on-a-Match Bar Group and Guerilla Development Co. both of which are very innovative firms. 

A principal in the Match Group is Ezra Ace Caraeff – a well-known figure in Portland and former Music Editor for the Portland Mercury.

I always try to visit an establishment twice before doing my review and in November, I returned – again with Abbey Foundation Board members, John Meek, John Limb and Gene Dieringer.

Both Meek and Limb are recent Board Presidents and we affectionately refer to them as First and Second John, although I avoided my inclination of an initial toast of:

“In the beginning was the Word…..”

While the Holy Ghost doesn’t serve food, it shares part of the building with The Electric – a pizzeria and 28 Tigers – a dumpling and noodle shop. There is a nice patio with a fire pit that is very popular with patrons and the social media reviews of the offerings are quite positive.

There’s good street parking available and the only real complaint is that the acoustics aren’t great and carrying a conversation can be a problem, although we didn’t experience that. It’s also sometimes challenging to find a seat.

Portland is fortunate to have the Three on a Match Bar Group which appears to have the same mission as Portland entrepreneurs and “bar revivalists” Marcus Archambeault and Warren Boothby.

The other Three on a Match bars are 

 

Paydirt

Tough Luck

Hi-Top Tavern

Stay tuned for a review of the Hi-Top which I visited late in 2024 and is another quality Portland neighborhood bar.

Cheers and Happy New Year

External Photo Attribution

#1. – #2. Holy Ghost Bar Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/holyghostbar/photos).

#3.  Pub at the End of the Universe Facebook Page (PUB at the END of the Universe | Portland, OR | Shows, Schedules, and Directions | ReverbNation).

#4.  Public Domain – Wikipedia Commons (File:The Bar-Kays 1968 press photo.jpg – Wikimedia Commons).  This work is in the public domain in the United States because it was published in the United States between 1929 and 1977, inclusive, without a copyright notice. Author: Distributed by Stax Records. The Bar-Kays in a press photo from the late 1960s.  – 1968.