The Crux of the Matter

Posted on August 11, 2023 by Thebeerchaser

Welcome back to Thebeerchaser. If you are seeing this post through an e-mail, please visit the blog by clicking on the title at the top to see all of the photos and so the narrative is not clipped or shortened. External photo attribution at the end of the post. (#1 – #2)

My wife, Janet and I first visited the Crux Fermentation Project in Bend in the summer of 2017 on a Central Oregon road trip. And there is no shortage of options in Bend as evidenced by the Bend Ale Trail.

Now the number of stops on this malted trek varies based on the internet site you check and the date because I saw figures ranging from ten to eighteen to thirty – the latter of which appears to be the latest count:

“For a small mountain town, Bend packs in the breweries. With 30 breweries on the Ale Trail, there is no lack of variety — whether you love , IPAs, or just a good beer-flavored beer, there is a craft brewery for everyone here!”

It’s debatable whether Bend can still be considered a “small mountain town” with a 2021 population of 102,000 and in 2017 we did not travel the entire journey which now has expanded to seven “Territories” and is more sophisticated….

“Track your progress in our free app, or pick up a keepsake paper passport at the Bend Visitor Center for $5. Either way, you can plot your course, bone up on brewery knowledge, or pick a perfectly paired adventure for your trek through each territory.”

But we did visit some great Bend breweries on the Trail including Sunriver, Boneyard, Goodlife, Spokenmoto (coffee and beer), Immersion and Atlas Cider Company.* Interestingly, notwithstanding the pandemic and increased competition, all are still open and appear to be thriving. (Photos from our 2017 trip)

*I was initially concerned that Atlas Cider was gone, but some additional research revealed it changed its name to Avid Cider Company because of an intellectual property dispute with Atlas Brew Works which brews beer in Washington DC. (Bend Bulletin)

(I guess that was before all DC lawyers were employed working on prosecuting or defending felonies……)

But Let Me Digress….

But before I get back to Crux and an exciting new development for the brewery, let me take a brief international side trip – appropriately, because I was talking about the Bend Ale Trail.

I want to take this opportunity to invite my friend from Germany, Rich Carbonara and his wife, Doreen, to Oregon to experience this Central Oregon phenomenon. (#3 – #4)

While we have not met face-to-face, Rich and I regularly share e-mails and comments on each of our blogs. Reading an excerpt from this Philadelphia native’s bio below and seeing the book he wrote, you will not be surprised at the commonality of our interests.

“Since those times, I’ve hiked from the Rockies to the Andes to the Himalayas but friends still mostly think of me as the beer guy, the one who was into craft beer before it became fashionable.

Living in Munich, I still do my fair share of alpine hiking in the nearby Alps but I find myself ever increasingly drawn to Germany’s brewing heartland to not only find the beers I’ve been looking for there since 1997 but also to enjoy the many trails that more gently get a person from point A to point B. In my case, those points are often if not always breweries.”

Now the scope of Rich’s adventures in hiking and exploring breweries far exceeds what we could offer just in Bend, but there are certainly numerous NW hikes and craft brews to more than pique his interest.

And besides, that would help me convince Janet that we should reciprocate and visit Munich for Beerwandering – a great complimentary activity to Beerchasing. If the photos of the breweries, the beer, the beautiful countryside and the food below entice you, check out his website. (#5 -#12)

https://www.beerwanderers.com/

“(I can be) a resource of information about the beer, food and trails of Bavaria, and in particular the northern part known as Franconia.

If the ideas don’t seem self-explanatory enough or if you just want a local guide to do all the planning, reserving of accommodation, getting you on the right trails to the best breweries and making sure you order (or at least know about) the local delicacies, then please feel free to contact me (thebeerwanderers@gmail.com”

What’s in a Name?

While we enjoyed each of our seven stops on the Trail, Crux, was clearly our favorite. The taproom was magnetic, the beer varied and high quality and the design of merchandise and beer cans and bottles creative.

But the most impressive feature was and still continues to be the grounds surrounding this former AAMCO Transmission Shop.

With food trucks, playground equipment and a stage for musical acts it’s a “community” gathering place that attracts locals and their families, tourists from throughout the Northwest and even “Pacific Crest Trail thru-hikers that take a break from their 2,600-mile trek.”

And one cannot help but feel the positive energy that keeps things hopping into the evening. The clever way Crux does “Sundowner Hour” with flexible times during the year depending on when Old Sol disappears below the horizon ($1 off beer 1/2 hour before and after sundown) is another example of creativity.

Crux had its tenth anniversary last summer celebrating the vision of Larry Sidor with co-founders Paul Evers and Dave Wilson

“….During these ten years, Crux has been producing hundreds of different beers and has since expanded into wine, cider, and most recently, whiskey!” Brewpublic.com

I don’t know the origin of the name, but an educated guess is after the celestial Crux:

“a constellation of the southern sky that centered on four bright stars in a cross-shaped asterism commonly known as the Southern Cross. It lies on the southern end of the Milky Way‘s visible band.” (#13 – #14)

Rest on its Laurels? No Way!

While the team at Crux has garnered many awards for both its beer and marketing, they are not resting on their laurels – so to speak. For example, in May 2021:

“After a few trial runs, Crux Fermentation Project has officially released NØ MØ Non-Alcoholic IPA in 12oz cans and on draft. This is the perfect option for those looking at cutting back their alcohol intake, reducing their calories consumed or pairs nicely with a lunch during the work day.

NØ MØ Non-Alcoholic IPA is brewed like a regular IPA using Citra and Mosaic hops.” (Brew Public May 4, 2021) (#15)

NO-MO-12pk-web

And I was especially pleased to read the June 18th article in Oregon Live Andre Meunier’s Beer Column entitled, “Crux Portland Pub opens in SE at former home of Vagabond Brewing.”

“The Crux Portland Pub is pouring 20 taps of its offerings, which eventually will include three batched cocktails.

Beers on the first tap list include five lagers, such as the Bivio Pilz Italian Pilsner; seven IPAs, including hazies and West Coasts, such as the tropical Grade A Portland IPA brewed for the new pub; and Tart Cherry Tough Love, a barrel-aged imperial stout.”

This was welcome news in light of another Oregon Public Broadcasting article entitled: “7 Portland Breweries and Taprooms are Closing. Is Peak Craft Beer Over? It named the following: Pono, Ambacht (Hillsboro), Sessionable, Grains of Wrath, Brewery 26, Unicorn and Conspirator Beverage.

Only one week later Oregon Live reported:

Culmination Brewing, once a Portland rising star, up for sale as costs, pandemic fallout take toll

I was really saddened by the closure of Pono Brewing after a visit with friends in January 2023. It was a wonderful family-oriented tap room with great food and good beer that they brewed temporarily at Zoiglhaus Brewing.

Founder Larry Clouser and his wife in addition to Marketing and Graphic Design Director, Byron Sina were gracious and talked about the challenges they had to overcome and their plans for the future. I wish them well.

While some of these closures were only the Portland-based part of their operations, the tale was familiar:

“Rising costs of operation, change in consumer drinking habits, and the lingering effects of the pandemic have all affected the market.”

But I Will Close on a Happy Note

Janet and I joined our friends John and Kim Limb and John and Sharon Meek for a Sunday afternoon dinner at the the new SE Pub. (Both Johns and I serve on the Abbey Foundation of Oregon Board – we refer to them as First and Second John…)

And while our friendly and competent server, Jen, stated that after opening in early June it’s still a work in progress, we were all impressed and will return.

The Beer – As you can see from the photo below, the tap offerings are rich and include their non-alcoholic brew. They also have wine and cocktails.

The Velvet Underpants IPA (6% – 60 IBU) was the favorite although the Cruz Pilz (5.2% – 35 IBU and the Noisy Boy IPA (5.7% – 65 IBU) both got good reviews and I’m sorry we didn’t get a sampler so we could try more of the tap list.

Photo Jul 23 2023, 5 20 59 PM (2)

Thanks to Kim Limb’s alertness when we walked in – she heard that one of the brewers from Bend was on site – I got to briefly chat and get a photo of Grant McFarren, Crux’s Assistant Brewmaster. (Take a look at this interesting interview with him about Experimental Hops) (#16)

The Food – Rather than rely on food carts as does the Bend location, the new pub has its own kitchen:

“… the menu includes dishes like a chopped cheese sandwich—a New York bodega classic, a muffuletta, sticky wings, a cheese-and-charcuterie board and a beet avocado banh mi.” (Willamette Week 6/19) (#17)

Our group, after a great Brussel Sprout Starter (flash fried and tossed with local hop honey, smoked blue cheese, Crux Whiskey, and pork belly ) had the Muffuletta Sandwich, the Jerk Chicken Sandwich, and the Beet and Burrata Salad (fresh local greens, roasted beets, delicata squash, sun-dried cherries, candied walnuts, pickled red onion, burrata cheese, and focaccia croutons). We were happy with our meals.

The Setting – As mentioned, still a work-in-process, but definite potential for this former Darigold Dairy structure.

There is ample free parking in their lot and on the street. The picnic tables – an interim setup – will be replaced by a full patio with heater which will probably be covered. They have a lot of space on the second floor which is being built out.

All this will supplement the very attractive long bar and current space for tables. And while Vagabond left some brewing hardware, it’s not being used now, but the plan is to brew on site as they progress with their plan:

“The new, modern rustic look is a credit to the skills and hard work of Gary Estenson, Crux’s maintenance manager, and head brewer Sam Wallace, Randles said. They took decades-old onion boxes that had been abandoned on a farm, cleaned them up, and crafted the wood-lined walls with them.

Estenson fabricated the copper-cylinder pendant lights hanging along the bar, in addition to other touches.” (Oregon Live 6/18) (#18 – #19)

Check out the new Crux Portland Pub. It’s here for the long term.

External Photo Attribution

#1. Crux Fermentation Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/cruxfermentationproject/photos/pb.100064366644696.-2207520000./5298066050280973/?type=3).

#2. Crux Fermentation Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/cruxfermentationproject/photos/pb.100064366644696.-2207520000./5673598242727750/?type=3).

#3. – #12. Beerwanderers Facebook Site – Beerwanderers Blog – Rich Carbonara Facebook Site (https://www.facebook.com/beersworththewalk) (https://www.beerwanderers.com/) (https://www.facebook.com/rcarbonara).

#13. Crux Logo – Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=637074851781397&set=a.637074795114736).

#14. Wikimedia Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Crux_Chart.jpeg) Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license. Author: Harv4 – 18 April 2014.

#15. Crux Website (NØ MØ Non-Alc IPA | Crux Fermentation Project %)

#16. Linked in (Grant McFarren) ((24) Grant McFarren | LinkedIn).

#17. Food (https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=191032433938879&set=pb.100090963706407.-2207520000).

#18 – #19. Fermentation Brewing Project Portland Pub Facebook Page (https://www.facebook.com/cruxportlandpub).

Should Old Acquaintances be Forgot?

Posted on January 28, 2023 by Thebeerchaser

Besides Wayfinder Brewing, which I reviewed in my last Beerchaser post, I’ve been back on the trail the last two months and had first-time visits to a number of breweries and bars that I’ll be sharing with you in future posts.

These include Binary, Von Ebert, and Pono breweries, the Wildwood Saloon and the Basement Pub – the latter a wonderful neighborhood bar on Portland’s SE side. Stay tuned and here’s a preview with some photos below:

That said and without trying to be maudlin at the start of a new year, I feel compelled to recognize three great Portland establishments – two that recently closed and one that will in the next few months. No glitzy brewery with shiny taps and sleek modern furniture can replace them.

“And surely you’ll buy your pint cup!

and surely I’ll buy mine!

And we’ll take a cup o’ kindness yet,

for Auld Lang Syne.”

The Jolly Roger

A June, 2022 Willamette Week article entitled, “Beloved Southeast Portland Dive the Jolly Roger Is on Its Final Voyage,” relates how co-owners for the last twenty years, Rob and Starr Jackson, negotiated with their landlord for an early exit on their lease.

“Admittedly, civic preservationists may have reason to worry about the Jolly’s truly irreplaceable feature.

Jackson admits there’s no clear plan on what will become of the bar’s justly treasured signage—a majestic freestanding pylon sign shaped like a ship’s mast at a height no longer sanctioned—but it’s evaded the wrecking ball before.”

For twenty years, an eastside landmark!

“….the property was bought by developers whose plans are for a five-story, 100-plus-unit residential complex……’We got destroyed during all the conflicts,’ (Portland protests and riots) Jackson tells WW.

‘No matter how much we tried to fix the building, people kept hurting it, and the police were unavailable to help.’ “ (emphasis added)

(Another sad commentary on the City of Portland’s disastrous inability to protect its streets and businesses during the pandemic.)

Portland’s permitting process is notoriously slow – a blessing for regulars at the JR because the original closing was supposed to be on Super Bowl Sunday. A bartender told me in a phone call today, however, that it has been extended to April or until the developers get the final go-ahead for their project.

I hit the Jolly Roger with my friend and Beerchasing Regular, Hillary Barbour, whose other Beerchasing exploits have included The Verne and Mad Hanna – a Reed College alum who appreciates dive bars….

And the Jolly Roger certainly fits the definition of a classic dive as you can see from the photos below – the cheap beer, video machines, dark and windowless rooms, historic beer signs and the restrooms which are consistent with dive bar standards. It is memorable and Portlanders will be sorry to see it set sail.

While the SE location will be missed, fortunately the Jackson’s have two other locations – the Jolly Roger at John’s Landing and the Sports Page in Beaverton.

Perhaps the historic ship’s mast should be placed at the top of Portland City Hall. Then all the City would need is a rudder……..!

A Buried Treasure Disappears

Photo Nov 15, 5 08 29 PM (2)

One of the establishments I reviewed in 2016, was one I visited for lunch many times while I was working at the law firm before retirement in 2011. The Schwabe firm was only two short blocks away from Mummy’s – an iconic Egyptian Lounge and Restaurant in the basement of another building.

It was owned by two unforgettable Egyptian brothers, Ghobvial and Phillip Mounir. They bartended, cooked and served the food – they were the only “employees.” They opened Mummy’s in about 1986.

Photo Nov 15, 5 48 26 PM

I used to take some of our Summer Associates (law school clerks) there for lunch. Since we were competing with other law firms to recruit them, these top students were typically wined and dined at Portland’s finest restaurants – Higgins, the Heathman Grille, Jake’s, etc.

To our Recruiting Director’s initial horror, I would usually take them to Mummy’s – that is until without exception, they would tell her that they loved the “tomb experience,” – the ambiance, Pyramid Beer, the brothers’ hospitality and the good Egyptian cuisine:

And the Schwabe managers and my family surprised me after hosting my 2011 retirement dinner at nearby Nel Centro, with an after-dinner reception at Mummy’s – it was memorable – in fact, there is a video someplace in the Ethernet of me reluctantly sharing the floor with a belly dancer, who was performing that night.

The last time I was there was for late afternoon drinks with two of my favorite Schwabe lawyers, Brian (Brain) King and Margaret Hoffman – both skilled litigators who have since retired. We met at the firm at 5:00 and headed on our two-block journey – like a reverse exodus of the Children of Israel.

Even though it had been five years since I had been to their establishment, when I walked in, Ghobvial immediately exclaimed, “Schwabe!” and pointed towards what had been my favorite booth.

Photo Nov 15, 5 22 12 PM

Whether it was the pandemic or the brothers deciding to forsake the daily grind, Mummy’s closed permanently in 2022.

Another possible theory was one I came across today in the Morning Brew newsletter – the ubiquitous arbiters of political correctness conceptually assigned the establishment to the same fate as one of Egypt’s most famous mummies Ramesses the Great, who was evidently ready to depart at the age of 90 after reigning for almost sixty years:

“Because of the many battles he fought, Ramesses’ body showed evidence of healed injuries and arthritis; his arteries were hardened; and he had a large dental infection that might have killed him.” (Photo attribution #1)

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is ramses_i_mummy.jpg

You see, the word “mummy” itself has now been banished or exiled to the toxic waste dump of no-longer acceptable terms.

Examples include “manhole” – now “maintenance hole” ; “unemployed” – now “involuntarily leisured”; “master bedroom” – now “primary suite”; or “wrong” – now “differentially logical”; etc. etc. etc.

And don’t forget elimination of “The Civil War” for the annual Oregon State vs. U of Oregon football game.

“Some museums want you to remember that mummies were once—a really long time ago—people, too. A trio of British museum organizations said they will avoid using the word “mummy” whenever possible, and swap it out with “mummified remains of” or “mummified person.”

Well Mummy’s may be gone, but it will not be forgotten – neither the name, the brothers, the food nor the ambiance and charm.

Sloan’s Tavern – Goodbye and Keep on Truckin’

One of Portland’s most iconic neighborhood bars closed on December 30, 2022 as reported by Willamette Week in an article: “Sloan’s Tavern is Remember by Regulars and Former Employees Following Its Closure“:

“(Sloan’s) closed for good Dec. 30 following Sloan’s sale of the property to developers— they plan to build a seven-story apartment building on the land, and (Shirley) Sloan will settle into a well-earned retirement.

Nostalgic well-wishers spent the last few weeks of 2022 coming by for one last visit and often to learn just how little they really knew about the establishment.”

And why do I describe this establishment as “iconic”? Well, just check the photo of the exterior wall on its west side in the photos I took when I reviewed the bar in 2016 – you can also view a younger Beerchaser from that visit….

Co-owner Bob Sloan also owned a body shop (Sloan’s Custom Body and Paint) next door and did skilled body and restorative work on classic autos. His specialty, however, was working on Freightliner Trucks which is evident from the exterior wall and a Freightliner grill built right into the bar.

When a café next door to the body shop run by an elderly lady closed, they bought the property and opened the bar in 1979. (The entire property was originally a creamery that opened in 1926.) Some reviews labeled it a “dive bar,” but it is no such thing.

When I interviewed this charming and classy lady in 2016, Shirley described Sloan’s as “My living room.”

The Bridgetown Bites blog conveys the décor aptly:

“Notable elements of the décor there at Sloan’s is the ‘frozen in time’ 1970s look inside; the semi-truck cab jutting out from the building; and the Chicago Coin Band-Box jukebox, a rare thing to find anywhere in the U.S. (it’s estimated there are only about 10 of them operating around the country).

Put in a quarter and you’ll see the figurines at the top dancing and playing the musical instruments in their hands, in time to whatever tune you picked (mostly Country music).”

P1040022

I was joined on my visit to Sloan’s by friends “West Coast” Dave Hicks, a San Francisco consultant with whom I worked in law firm days and John Horvick. People in the NW will recognize< John as an oft-quote political and polling consultant at the respected firm DHM Research and with whom I served on the Board of the City Club of Portland.

The three of us enjoyed the ambiance and the food (essentially home-cooked since it’s Shirley’s living room….). I’m sure they join me and other Portlanders who said farewell to this Albina area neighborhood institution. It’s one of a number of bars that will now exist only in our good memories.

P1040014

May Shirley Sloan have a wonderful retirement and let’s hope the Oregon Historical Society or some other protector of historical artifacts gains possession of the Chicago Coin Band-Box jukebox.