A Decade of Beerchasing!

Posted on January 5, 2022 by Thebeerchaser

(Welcome back to Thebeerchaser. If you are seeing this post through an e-mail, please visit the blog by clicking on the title above to see all of the photos and so the narrative is not clipped or shortened.)

I guess it is appropriate that my 300th post on Thebeerchaser blog be a celebration, of sorts – ten years of this retirement hobby – started in August 2011. My plans for a more formal gathering in the early fall were delayed by the pandemic and will be held in 2022.

Some Background

After first working in the public sector and then legal management for the the last thirty-years of my career – the final twelve as the Chief Operating Officer at the Schwabe Williamson & Wyatt law firm – a 150 attorney firm with its principal office in Portland, Oregon, I retired in early 2011.

A retirement present from the firm – note the name of the wine which was appropriate….

Since I spent many of my waking hours working, there was some concern about how I would handle retirement. But from the first day, I loved it.

There has never been a boring period whether it was from trying to remaster the oboe – I had abandoned after junior high – with lessons, traveling with my wife of thirty-one (now forty-one) years, playing with the blessings to come – four granddaughters, enjoying the Oregon coast or what became my primary hobby – a blog named Thebeerchaser.com.

The seed germinated before retirement was sown with visits to two great dive bars – The Stanley Rod and Gun Whitewater Saloon in Stanley, Idaho and Lumpy’s Landing in Dundee, Oregon. It prompted the crazy idea to personally experience and then tell the story of bars and breweries – initially just in Portland – but shortly thereafter, all through Oregon and parts of the US and even a number in Europe.

The books and bar guides shown in the picture at the start of this post, are some of the references I used in framing my posts.

So Thebeerchaser.com was brewed – starting slowly and with the help of two wonderful and talented friends who created the two logos I’ve used (Teresa Maclean and Jud Blakely), I slowly (and often painfully) learned how to use WordPress to convey the impressions on my subject.

It was not a technical commentary on my favorite beverage, but narratives on the history of the bar or brewery, interviews with the regulars and bar staffs, descriptions of the trappings and what distinguished the ambiance from other watering holes.

Early on, I also decided to relate the stories of individuals or groups (primarily those I knew personally) who may not have had any connection with bars or beers, but had an interesting story and made a notable contribution to society in my humble opinion. These soon came to be “honored” with the moniker of Beerchaser-of-the-Quarter.

This is an eclectic group and past recipients include lawyers (some worked at the Schwabe firm), authors, athletes, clerics, musicians, environmentalists, military heroes, academicians and athletes.

Also three family members – Janet, my wife, in part, for supporting and joining me on many of my Beerchasing travels, my brother, Rick, for his remarkable career in the Navy which culminated as skipper of the nuclear sub USS Spadefish (SSN 668) and most recently, my Dad (F. Duane Williams – FDW), who although he passed away at the age of 54 in 1973, left a notable legacy.

For a composite list of these remarkable individuals and groups and some additional background, check out the following Beerchaser link for the 2020 post entitled, “Beerchasers-of-the-Quarter (Who,What,Why? – thirty-five at that time.

Since I have expanded on my tribute to lawyers with multiple posts and composed several chapters to my Dad’s story in 2021, the count now is thirty-six which I hope to expand more diligently in 2022.

Some Statistics

Not once have I considered commercializing this blog – it’s strictly a hobby, so I don’t have to worry about deadlines, number of viewers, etc. That said, since I worked in a law firm for twenty-five years where statistics translated into economics i.e. compensation, I do have some interest in the metrics of my blog.

I will also freely admit that my posts are usually too long – they average 1,677 words for the ten years, but for the last five the average has increased to 2,136 and this one is over 3,000 (sorry!), which discourages most viewers from reading the entire post – even with the pictures scattered through the narrative. But this trend, probably won’t change since I’m writing primarily for my own enjoyment after framing numerous legal management memos during my career that bored even me – the author!

And while Thebeerchaser.com is a hobby, I have been delighted with the additional exposure it has gotten every year which leads to more interactions with people from all over the world.

The Slammer – A Portland bar with barbwire….

My wife says I spend more time these days on the computer than when I worked and since my 299 posts have generated 501,485 words, she’s probably right. Unfortunately, the pandemic has essentially curtailed my visits to new locations since early 2020

Up to that time I had visited (usually twice for each one counted) 366 establishments of which 119 were in the Portland metro area and the other 247 scattered through God’s country and beyond. It’s almost impossible to identify a few favorite watering holes, but the photos above show four of them. In reviewing my galleries for this selection, I note with sadness that a number I could have included are no longer in business.

I also state – with disappointment – albeit with some anticipation, that in the last two years because of lockdowns and our own caution in dealing with COVID, I’ve added only nine premises to that total – seven in Portland and two in Bellingham, Washington – a very nice town we visited on a long weekend with lots of breweries, expansive parks and a nice college. At both the Boundary Bay and Aslan Breweries, we were able to eat on decks with plenty of ventilation and mask protocols. We will return!

Diverted, but not Diminished…

Instead, my blog posts have been devoted to catching up on the narratives of the forty-nine bars and breweries we visited on an extensive Montana road trip in 2019 – six days with Don flying solo and the remainder after I picked Janet up at the Billings Airport to continue our trip through the Dakotas, Wyoming and Idaho before returning to Oregon.

A wonderful 2019 road trip filled with watering holes and National Parks and Monuments

I also offered reflections on life during a worldwide pandemic, memories from high school and working around lawyers, sarcastic comments about technical reviews on beers, and updates on some of my Beerchasers-of-the-Quarter along with miscellaneous other trivia from my files – those that my wife insisted I clean out during the pandemic.

The blog now has 411 “followers” – individuals who get an e-mail every time there’s a new post. I also realize that my metrics pale compared to some of the blogs I regularly follow and have gotten to know the authors – something I will elaborate on in a future post.

In 2021 Thebeerchaser.com garnered a total of 28,500 views from just over 20,000 “visitors” – up from the comparable figures of 6,800 and 4,800 in 2012 – the first full year of the blog. The majority are people searching the internet and land on “Thebeerchaser.”

An increase in viewership through ten years

Although just over 90% of these views are from the US as one would expect, the exact localities in the 104 other countries where views have emanated in 2021, fill me with curiosity.

This includes three from Iceland – a place I hope to eventually visit and raise a mug of their Kaldi Fresh Breeze beer at the Micro Bar on Second Street in Reykjavik after seeing the Northern Lights.

Related Benefits

Besides the opportunity to quaff hundreds of great craft beers (although I will always opt for a PBR Tallboy), the blog has presented many other ancillary benefits. One I’ve written about numerous times is becoming involved in the planning of the Benedictine Brewery on the grounds of the Mount Angel Abbey and Seminary and which opened in late 2018.

The Brewery and St. Michael Taproom has since expanded and been very successful – even during a pandemic – under the skillful management and superb brewing skills of Fr. Martin Grassel, who has become a good friend. It also led to my service on the Abbey Foundation of Oregon Board of Trustees for which I just started my second three-year term.

The Benedictine Brewery – Taste and Believe!

I’ve also had the pleasure of speaking about my Beerchasing journey to four Rotary Clubs in Oregon – West Linn and Lincoln City in person and Lake Oswego and Bend over ZOOM – a new and challenging experience in public speaking – it was hard to tell if anyone was laughing at my bar and lawyer jokes…..During the in-person presentations, I, at least, knew that they weren’t!

Learning a lot of history and geography while researching the places I’m reviewing has been rewarding; however, the most beneficial and lasting aspect of this retirement pursuit (without question) has been the diverse range of people we’ve met while Beerchasing.

I met people ranging from loggers in Wallace, Idaho at the North Idaho Mountain Brew pub; to an Alaska fisherman – a guy in his fifties named Bill – at Darwin’s Theory in Anchorage, who in the ’70’s used to transport marijuana in the fenders of his big Lincoln across the country. And there was Irish Mike, who journeys twice yearly on his Harley from San Francisco, to Lincoln City, Oregon.

Irish Mike is a burly, bearded guy and designated the “local ambassador” at one of my favorite dives – The Old Oregon Saloon on the Central Oregon Coast. As I was taking pictures, he motioned me to come over to him, reached in his wallet for some dollar bills and told me to plug the juke box adding “Don’t screw it up!”

Irish Mike at the “Old O” in Lincoln City

Then there was the regular at Eilers’ Place in Pueblo, Colorado, who coincidentally happened to be in the bar with three friends after the bartender responded to my question about the history of the bar. She took out the photo below to demonstrate that the bar has always been a family oriented place and asked:

“You see that mama in the photo holding her baby – second from the end? Well that baby is sitting in the booth right over by the door.”

I went over and introduced myself and he shook hands and he said, “I’m James Mohorcich, but you should just call me ‘Horse.’ I live across the street and I’ve been coming here for at least forty years.”

One of the great bars in Pueblo, Colorado

I’ve met some wonderful bartenders and owners from Phoebe Newcombe – who gave me a baseball cap she autographed on my first Beerchase in 2011 at the Brooklyn Park Pub, to Andre’, from Macedonia, who had an infectious smile, a warm personality and joked with us notwithstanding a very busy bar at the Little Missouri Saloon in Medora, North Dakota.

On one of our East Coast swings we visited the Marshall Wharf Brewery in quaint Belfast. This Maine town of a little less than 7,000 was founded in 1770 and like our Portland, the name (derived from the Northern Ireland city) was determined by a coin toss.

There, Kathryn, our friendly bartender, went through the list of their brews (German beer is their specialty) and talked me into trying a German Rauchbier – a smoked malt beer – Marshall’s Deep Purple Rauchbier (6.0%). Beer Advocate described it as:

“Smoke on the water! This Bamberg (Germany) inspired smoked ale is Bacon in a Glass (emphasis added). Very polarizing beer – you either like the style and taste or you never want to drink it again…..”

I loved it. Of course, what food or drink with bacon infusion wouldn’t I savor…..?

I love the bars in Montana and won’t forget one of my favorite regulars of Thebeerchaser’s Tour – Fritz – who had his own stool at the Antler Saloon in Wisdom, Montana. About fifty miles away from that great bar, I had a long chat while nursing a Miller High Life with Tom Davis, the “seasoned” owner of the Wise River Club.

He emigrated from Scotland in 1964 and told me, “In those days if you had an accent and could sing, you could make some money.” He formed a band and played lead guitar. Tom and his group fronted and toured with Sonny and Cher, the Mamas and Papas and in the Northwest with Portland’s own Paul Revere and the Raiders.

And, by chance, when I walked in one late Saturday afternoon, after reading about them in the book “Montana Watering Holes,” I had a memorable and extended conversation with Dick and Charlotte Sappa, the legendary owners since 1973 of the Blue Moon Saloon in Columbus Falls, Montana.

It’s purported to have the longest bar in Montana and is known for its legendary taxidermy including a polar bear. I was fortunate to get a tour of the “Upper Room” – filled with exotic trophies – by their son, Bill – “something we don’t usually do for strangers……”

Three “Unforgettable Characters“!

I can’t end without naming three of the most unforgettable people I’ve met strictly as a result of this hobby – again hard to narrow the candidates down – but they stand out – John Runkle, the late Brian Doyle and Matt Love.

John Runkle, who up until one month ago, was the owner of my favorite and most iconic bar I visited in the ten years – the Dirty Shame Saloon in Yaak, Montana.

I spent two days in Yaak and stayed in the Wolf Room at the Yaak River Lodge which John still owns. (His goal is to move to Texas.) John has charisma and both a personality and heart as big as the Montana sky. (He also claims to be the only sixty-year old with three kids under five (four, two and three months!)

I met the late author, Brian Doyle, in 2013 after I wrote a letter and asked him to meet me at his favorite bar (the Fulton Pub) so I could interview him for Beerchaser-of-the-Quarter honors. To my surprise, he agreed. He was a wonderful human being who left a legacy at the University of Portland, where he was on the faculty, the basketball courts of the Boston City League and most notably fans of great literature. His award-winning books and essays are mentioned in the post I dedicated to him – Brian Doyle – Beerchaser Eternal

Runkle accepting a peace offering of Benedictine Beer

Matt Love, is a fellow Oregon City High School grad who lived in Oregon City during his junior high and high school years and graduated from OCHS in 1982. He is a prolific author (nineteen books) who owns the Nestucca Spit Press – a small publishing company. His repertoire, to name a few I’ve read, includes Oregon Tavern Age – an exploration of dive bars on the Oregon Coast – something Thebeerchaser relished.

Add to this list, “The Bonnie and Clyde Files – How Two Senior Dogs Saved a Middle-aged Man.” In 2009, he won the prestigious Oregon Literary Arts’ Stewart H. Holbrook Literary Legacy Award for his contributions to Oregon history and literature.

Matt and I after communicating by e-mail for several years, finally met last fall – joined by another OCHS grad – former Beerchaser-of-the-Quarter Jim Westwood at the Falls View Tavern.

Matt’s writing style, his humor and rich descriptions are especially evident in his 102-page tome on dogs entitled Of Dogs and Meaning.- it’s absolutely captivating – and I make that assertion even though Janet and I have never had a dog during our 41 years of marriage.

Besides Matt’s own heart-warming stories from athletics, teaching and most notably, of his own dogs – Sonny, Bonnie and Clyde, and Tex, he relates canine tales ranging from those involving George Washington, James Madison, John Kennedy, Barack Obama, Winston Churchill and WC Fields. And of course, his years in dive bars yield a few good anecdotes:

“I met a dog in an Oregon Tavern who fetched cans of Hamm’s for humans from behind the bar, but only Hamm’s. Budweiser was out.”

A Wonderful Book from the Nestucca Spit Press

Matt also has a big heart and compassion and respect for others. His latest project is a newsletter entitled “The New American Diaspora.” You can (and should) subscribe by clicking on the link:

“I coined the phrase the New American Diaspora to describe the growing phenomenon of those people living in homelessness and those people checking out of the so-called American dream and taking up residence in the margins.

The focus of this newsletter is on Oregon where I live. I float around the state. I don’t necessarily hold my observations and interactions out as representative of what’s happening elsewhere around the country, but perhaps they are.”

Say Goodnight, Geoff!!

For the finale and to further explain why Montana will always be my favorite Beerchasing state, I have to leave you with a tune by an affable old guy named Geoff at the Yaak River Tavern – across the street from the Dirty Shame Saloon (but no comparison on the ambiance). He was playing guitar and singing – on a bar stool at the bar – nursing one of a number of beers he had consumed that day/night and telling stories.

I told the owner that I was buying him a beer when he came in the next day (he didn’t need any more that night…) and to credit his account. So Geoff sang us his favorite song. This is an excerpt although it essentially captures all the lyrics in 19 seconds…. (When the lyrics have “palm trees,” “banana,” “beach” and “Montana” in the same verse, you know there’s creativity!)

Geoff Rocks Out

Cheers and Happy New Year!

External Photo Attribution

*1 – 2 Facebook Page – Micro Bar – Rekjavik, Iceland (https://www.facebook.com/MicroBarIceland/photos/a.305930982827754/30593102949441

*3 Kaldi Brewery Website (https://www.bruggsmidjan.is/is/bjorinn/kaldi)

*4 Wikimedia Commons (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Moon_and_Aurora.jpg) Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license. Author: Wa17gs 6 April 2017.

Reflections on Western Towns and Cities – Part 1

Posted on March 19, 2021 by Thebeerchaser

I’ve mentioned in prior posts, our September 2019, fifteen-day 3,700-mile road trip through six western states.

And those who follow Thebeerchaser know that besides touring a number of fantastic National Parks and Monuments as well as the impressive Custer State Park, we visited wonderful bars and breweries – 29 of which I hit on my first six days (23 bars and 6 breweries). After my first two nights in the village of Yaak, I stayed in scenic Montana cities of Kalispell, Hamilton, Anaconda and Livingston.

A field at the city limits of Hamilton

The idea for this road journey emanated from the ten-day solo road trip I took through Eastern Oregon, Idaho and Montana in 2004 during part of a law firm sabbatical. In that 2,600-mile journey in which I carried my Trek bicycle on our Subaru Forester and essentially had no planned itinerary except to explore and discover – also to escape my Blackberry….

Oh, to be 56 again — my 2004 Road Trip

A number of those miles were on gravel Forest Service roads – including the challenging Trail Creek Road out of Ketchum, Idaho shown in the photo with the cattle I saw along the way.

After staying at Oregon’s beautiful Wallowa Lake, and lodging for two nights nights in Stanley, Idaho,I stayed in Salmon, Idaho – right on the west border of Montana – and joined a lot of folk rocking out to a country-western group at the Lantern Bar on Saturday night.

There was no room except one seat at the bar and I started talking to a construction worker about where I should head. He was very helpful and I asked him if I could buy him a drink. He responded “No. But you can dance with my girlfriend.” (Sitting next to him.) She then made a valiant effort to teach me how to do the Cowboy Two Step. (I was about the only guy in the bar without cowboy boots…)

The next morning I attended church at Salmon’s United Methodist Church where I enjoyed the sermon and talking with friendly members of the congregation at the coffee-hour afterwards.

I then headed for Butte and marveled at the Big Sky Country and camped near Wisdom before staying my last night in Missoula.

Historical sites such as the Big Hole National Battlefield and the Historic Montana State Prison and Auto Museum at Deer Lodge took an entire day to adequately appreciate.

Of course, I also hit several of the “ghost towns” – all of which were fascinating, especially Bannack, Bonanza – home of the now restored Yankee Fork Dredge and nearby Custer, which has many of the historic structures preserved – founded in 1879 by a Harvard Law School graduate who gave up his law career to become a prospector.

Looking down from Boot Hill in Bannack

The seeds of Thebeerchaser Tour of Bars and Taverns which commenced upon retirement seven years later, were sown on that 2004 trip based on my initial visit to the legendary Rod and Gun Whitewater Saloon in Stanley, Idaho and the the Dewey Bar in Wise River, Montana..

The Dewey Bar in Wise River, Montana

The narrative on those two bars can be viewed at:

https://thebeerchaser.com/2016/09/08/beerchasing-in-idaho-part-ii-stanley-and-the-sawtooths/

and

https://thebeerchaser.com/2020/08/19/pondering-during-the-pandemic-1/

Downtown Stanley

The Rod and Gun was operated from 1971 until his death in 1990, by the singer and songwriter Cassanova Jack. It’s located just east of the corner of Ace of Diamonds and Wall Streets in Stanley.

Located in Custer County, the town has a population of a little less than 100 and winter temperatures that made it once, the coldest place in North America. It’s in the heart of the wonderous Sawtooth Mountains and the gateway to the Idaho backcountry.

I returned – this time with my wife in 2016, and Cassanova Jack’s brother and fellow musician, Jonny Ray, was an engaging host and full of stories on their days touring and captivating bar stories.

Jack’s band was named the Stardusters and Jonny Ray (who still is known as the “Singing Bartender“) subsequent band was named JR & Cheap-N-Easy.

Johnny Ray at the Rod and Gun in 2016

The Dewey Bar, is really in a remote area – in Wise River, Montana, along the Big Hole River. I camped that night in a Forest Service Campground. I naively walked into what came close to being the first bar fight I witnessed.

Due to the mediating skill of a retired attorney from Seattle, the fracas was avoided when he admonished the two guys on the brink of fisticuffs in a commanding voice, “If you two will sit down and shut up, I’ll buy everybody in the house a drink.”

This was followed by rousing cheers and a fairly hefty bar bill which he gladly dispatched. I then spent the next hour sharing lawyer stories and a few drinks with this former counselor, which was the last time I’ve ever seen him. (I checked with the regulars to see if he was still around when I went back in 2019.)

Telling law firm stories in 2004

Just as in the fall 2019 trip, in my earlier road journey, besides the magnificent scenery, I was captivated by the rich history and most notably, the character and heritage of some of the smaller cities such as Stanley and Salmon, Idaho; Darby and Missoula, Montana; and Joseph and Baker Oregon.

American Historian

This journey reaffirmed Frederick Jackson Turner’s “Frontier Thesis”:

“….the American character was decisively shaped by conditions on the frontier, in particular the abundance of free land, the settling of which engendered such traits as self-reliance, individualism, inventiveness, restless energy, mobility, materialism, and optimism.” (Britannica.com)

The Sawtooth Range from the outskirts of Stanley

On the 2019 trip, I also discovered that Turner’s premise shapes the political philosophy of Montana residents but more about that in Part II.

My trip in 2004 was ten unforgettable days of adventure and gaining an appreciation for the rustic western countryside.

Janet – “Don’t Even Think About It!”

Runkle – An invitation for a bucket list item….

When we discussed the 2019 proposed route for our trip, my wonderful spouse of 40 years, informed me in unequivocal terms that she was not going to take a several hundred mile side trip to the far NW corner of Montana so I could visit the World Famous Dirty Shame Saloon in Yaak.

This storied bar had been a bucket list item since shortly after I started this blog in 2011 and had talked to the owner, John Runkle. He extended an invitation to visit him and stay in Yaak. I was therefore downcast with the ultimatum….

But through the negotiating process, refined over those four decades, she then generously agreed to my spending the first six days sans companion and picking her up when she flew into Billings, Montana to complete the rest of our trek. Now you know why I honored Janet with Thebeerchaser-of-the-Year title in 2015.

In South Dakota’s Badlands National Park

So like a little kid on Christmas Eve, I drove the 520 miles from our residence in West Linn – a burb of Portland – to Yaak where I stayed for two nights in the Wolf Room of the Yaak River Lodge – it’s also owned by John Runkle – and about a mile down the highway from his saloon.

Yaak, with a year-round population of about 250 is an unincorporated community with minimal commercial operations and on which the “Welcome To” and “Come Again” signs could theoretically be placed on the same telephone pole. It’s thirty miles west of Route 2 in the heart of the Kootenai National Forest on the Yaak River Road.

The Yaak River

But it was a wonderful start to the trip. John was an outstanding host and I loved the people I met those two days on which I will expand in my next blog post.

On the remaining four days before I picked up Janet, I drove our Prius (sans gun rack) while being enthralled with the sights from Flathead Lake to the 585 foot Anaconda Smelter Stack. My companion, of sorts, was Sirius Satellite Radio and I rotated through the channels from Jazz, to classical to Big Band, while always returning to Classic Country.

A plethora of styles on Sirius

That’s because these tunes helped capture the mood while visiting bars such as the historic Montana Bar in Miles City – serving folk since 1908 – shown below. Each watering hole was filled with friendly bartenders and regulars, wild animal trophies, spittoons (a few) and juke boxes.

And they didn’t play the new pseudo country rock tunes – but the old-time vocalists I love, most notably, George Jones, Don Williams, Waylon Jennings, Johnny Cash and more recent crooners like Alan Jackson and Dan Seals.

Unfortunately, I never heard the tune I longed for “She Was a Bootlegger’s Daughter and I Loved Her Still.”

(Maybe that one was a figment of my imagination and I made up the title while downing a Miller High Life at the Antlers Saloon in Wisdom.

The Champagne of Bottled Beers

Now with the pandemic and resulting lockdowns, I’ve had a lot more time to reflect – rather than visit new bars. And what brought back the best memories were some of the towns and smaller cities which just seemed like great communities to live, work and raise a family.

I’ll talk about that in my next post, but since I mentioned Dan Seals, it’s fitting – at least in my view – to end with some of the lyrics of his song, “God Must be a Cowboy at Heart” which perfectly captures the sentiment engrained on that trip.

Sleepin’ in the moonlight
A blanket for my bed
Leaves a peaceful feelin’ in my mind…
Wakin’ up in the mornin’
With an eagle overhead
Makes me want to fly away before my time

And I think God must be a cowboy at heart
He made wide open spaces from the start…
He made grass and trees and mountains
And a horse to be a friend
And trails to lead old cowboys home a-gain…

Along Montana Highway 43 near Wisdom

Big Sky Beerchasing – The Preface

Posted on July 5, 2019 by Thebeerchaser

Just above Kootenai Falls near Libby, Montana

On a back road right outside Yaak, Montana

In June, we took a combined fourteen-day road trip through Montana with subsequent stops in North and South Dakota and Wyoming, before returning home through Montana, Idaho and Oregon’s Columbia Gorge. The magnificence of the vistas we encountered each day is still ingrained in our minds.

I use the term “combined” because on the first six days of the trip, I soloed – driving slightly over 1,400 miles starting with two nights in Yaak, Montana (stay tuned to find out why I chose that destination) and with overnight stays in Kalispell, Hamilton, Anaconda and Livingston, before picking Janet up at the airport in Billings.

The Grand Hotel in downtown Kalispell – which was both historic and grand!

(I should add that the idea for the solo part of my trip for which I am indebted to my wife of 39 years, originated in 2004, when for ten days of my law firm sabbatical, I traveled 2,600 miles through Eastern Oregon, Idaho and Western Montana enjoying our beautiful Western scenery.)

This time a Prius instead of a Subaru….

The pictures show the difference between the first trip and this one – I look a lot older now and I wised up and even though it looked cool to carry a bike on the back of the car, my plan on this trip was to rent a cycle if I had the opportunity to work that in.

In the 2004 trip, because of two flat tires, I ended riding a total of four blocks while lugging the bike the entire way!

The day I left in 2004 – this time in a Subaru Forrester with a mountain bike (for decoration…)

On the earlier trip, I was still working and had not started my idiosyncratic retirement hobby of Beerchasing although a visit to one of the few bars at which I made stops – The Stanley Idaho Rod and Gun Whitewater Saloon – was a key factor in germinating the idea for my Beerchasing Tour – started in August 2011. (My wife and I returned to the Rod and Gun on another road trip in 2016 after I started the blog.)

From Billings, the two of us then tacked on another 2,300 miles, visiting three National Parks (Teddy Roosevelt, Badlands and Wind Cave), one National Monument (Jewel Cave), two Memorials (Mt. Rushmore National Memorial and the Crazy Horse Memorial) and what has to be one of the most impressive and expansive state parks in the US – Custer State Park in South Dakota.

Badlands National Park

Now since this is a blog about bars, saloons and breweries, and in order not to disappoint Beerchaser followers, I have to add that the combined total of establishments visited (meaning having a drink or meal and interacting with the bartender or customers and not just making an entrance) was 49, of which 30, I enjoyed on my first six days.

Trappers’ Saloon in Eureka Montana – the third day on the way to Kalispell

The remaining nineteen saw both of us participating. The picture of Trapper’s Saloon above in Eureka, Montana is a sample of the rich environment that characterized the great majority of the bars and breweries.

A bar with a rich history in the metropolis of Wise River…

I have to add that some may think the statistics above demonstrate an unhealthy obsession with establishments operated primarily for the sale of intoxicating spirits. In defense, I would suggest that the usually brief visits we paid are one of the best methods to meet new and interesting people, find out what should be seen in a new city and in the case of older bars, educate oneself on rich and fascinating history.

The Dewey Tavern

In addition, it spurred us to visit smaller cities such as Eureka, Troy, Miles City and Wise River that we otherwise would have just passed by.

We hit establishments in twenty-seven different bergs on the trip. Stay tuned for the posts on this journey and you will have a better appreciation.

Note: Since I started Beerchasing, I realized that it was imperative that I drink responsibly in visiting the bars/breweries and never get behind the wheel without being absolutely sober,.

So to allay any concern about that issue, while alone, I would space my visits throughout the day and usually consumed a single bottle of Miller High Life (by the way, an excellent brew and deserving of the label, “The Champagne of Beers” rather than a pint of microbrew. My visits to most of the bars would last about 45 minutes to an hour.

Sometimes I would just have a soda water and when Janet and I were Beerchasing, we inevitably shared a pint or would have two or three four-ounce samplers between us.

Since I worked in legal management for over thirty years and a considerable part of my job was being immersed in statistics, I should point out the overall total would compute to one watering hole, for every 75.5 miles traveled.

The chart at the end of this post gives a complete listing including the name and location. In several subsequent posts, I will highlight or at least offer some brief comments on each one, but this post is intended to set the stage.

Why Start and Spend Two Nights in Yaak?

For three years, visiting the Dirty Shame Saloon in Yaak – up near the Canadian border in NW Montana was a personal, if not peculiar, goal of mine.

John Runkle – owner of the Dirty Shame

Since talking to a bartender in Idaho, who used to work there and subsequently calling the owner, former Army paratrooper, John Runkle and doing a short post on his revival of the Dirty Shame when he purchased it out of foreclosure in 2013, visiting it has been on my bucket list.

Blueberry Pancake Breakfast in the Lodge

And the two nights I spent in the Moose Room of the outstanding Yaak River Lodge – John is also the owner – and my time spent hanging at the bar and interviewing John, were a wonderful start to my trip – one which you will be reading about in future posts.

I presented him with two bottles of Benedictine Beer from the monk-owned brewery in Mount Angel, Oregon which now occupy a shelf in the Dirty Shame Saloon.

The Dirty Shame had the most stories of any of the 300 watering holes I’ve reviewed in over seven years — and they are all true!!

Thebeerchaser and John Runkle with the ceremonial presentation of Benedictine Beer

Janet was willing to go on a road trip through Montana but agreed to my six-day solo venture because although she likes breweries, she has an aversion to the dive bars I cherish. She also thought the opportunity for me to read, reflect and see some wonderful scenery on my own would be enriching.

Ubiquitous!!

I use this term meaning “found everywhere” to recognize my long-term and cherished friendship with Oregon State SAE fraternity brother and former Beerchaser-of-the-Quarter, Craig – The Dude – Hanneman, for his legendary athletic, mountaineering and notable professional accomplishments.

Back in the last ’60’s at OSU – Thebeerchaser and The Dude

Kirby Neuman-Rhea, the Editor of the Hood River News is also part of the tale. The story behind our attachment to this word is too long to relate the background, but it’s funny.

There were certain features or characteristics that one encountered everywhere in Montana and, for the most part, added to its charm and distinction.

Big Sky Scenery – One was the beautiful and varied scenery – it made the miles of road never boring. The stunning vistas made it difficult not to stop and take photos. It became obvious why Montana is commonly referred to as “Big Sky Country.”

Straight Roads – Speaking of miles of roads, those roads were often long and straight – not only the Interstate, but the State highways we traveled. Janet was driving when I took this picture.

And miles to go before I sleep….

Taxidermy – virtually every bar and many of the breweries had mounted wildlife as part of the bar’s décor. In some cases it was overwhelming, but in most, it accurately reflected the culture of the state.

A little research revealed that there are 205 taxidermists registered in the state and Helena even has the Montana School of Taxidermy and Tanning. And this year’s annual convention of the Montana Taxidermists’ Association in Billings was the most well-attended ever according to the Billings Gazette.

Now one may disagree with the entire concept of hunting (I went hunting for deer one time in junior high and never had the desire to do it again…) but it appears that taxidermists and most of hunters use the entire animal and don’t just kill for sport. As evidence, the sign on this firm which I photographed in Anaconda.

Crosses Along the Highway – Montana has a very high rate of traffic fatalities. It’s a combination of a high speed limit especially in rural areas, bad weather and road conditions in many months of the year and a high rate of alcohol consumption.

In my first few days, I kept seeing crosses along the highways – even in very remote areas and wondered about the background. According to a 2004 article in the Billings Gazette, this program started in 1953 by the American Legion and is done solely by volunteers.

By 2015, there were more than 2,000 crosses erected. Last year the 181 traffic fatalities was the third straight year the death toll dropped because of State programs to reduce car accidents. And seeing those symbols is a sobering reminder to drive responsibly.

Casinos – Although many Oregon bars have video poker, the number of “casinos” in Montana and the signs advertising them is annoying – they are everywhere (or one might say, “ubiquitous…”).

The licenses for bars and restaurants are cheap and they can have up to 20 video games in the establishment although most bar “casinos” only had about five to ten. There are also six tribal casinos.

Ubiquitous!

According to GamblingSites.com, there are “1.033 million people spread out across 147,000 square miles…. and Montana offers 292 different gambling establishments.”

Recreational Vehicles (RV’s) and Long-haul Truckers – I’m sure that the number on the road is similar to other states which have major Interstates.

I was amazed, however, at the quantity and diverse makes of RVs – usually with the male driving and the female in the co-pilot role. I’m interested in how the economic analysis of RV travel verses lodging and eating in inexpensive or moderately priced motels and restaurants charts out…..

Class A RVs – the baby boomers’ luxury ride.

Long-haul trucks were an oft-repeated vehicle one passed on all of the Montana. And I have the utmost respect for the long-haul owner/operators. They have a tough job and are skilled drivers which make the highways safer for the rest of us.

They typically drive these 80,000 pound behemoths (a single rig) between 2,000 to 3,000 miles per week and are often away from family usually for two to three weeks at a time.

Sirius Satellite Radio – I subscribe to Sirius Radio on our Prius. And the low monthly price was well worth it during the days on the road when the AM and FM frequencies would be hard to receive.

Other than a very few remote locations, I got the Sirius signal clearly and besides two cable news channels which admittedly have a politically biased slant, I also listened to channels called Bluesville, Yacht Rock, Soul Town, Rockin’ Country BBQ and Forties Junction.

Sirius Satellite was good company….

My music tastes are eclectic and I roared down the road rocking to the Temptations, George Benson, George Jones and Don Williams, Benny Goodman and Glenn Miller and America and Phoebe Snow. (I must have heard “Sister Golden Hair” at least twenty times and loved it.)

It was only when Yacht Rock teed up “Muskrat Love” by the Captain and Tennille that I drew the line because I did not have a vomit bag.

Muskrat Love was not vomit proof….

Fox News – Without getting immersed in politics, I will state that I am not a fan of Fox News (although I admit to being a moderate Republican) and its political commentators.

While in most Oregon bars, one sees multiple screens with athletic events, it appeared to me that there were fewer big screen TVs, but they were almost always turned to Fox be it in bars, restaurants or hotels.

Montana Humor

Many native Montanans are not happy about the influx of people from other states – most notably Californians moving to the state and buying up land.

The sign below reminded me of Oregon during the Governor Tom McCall era when we wanted people to “visit but not stay.”

Although there are political divisions and critical economic and natural resources facing the state, I was still impressed with the good nature, welcoming conversation (especially the bartenders and bar regulars with whom we interacted) and indications of the positive outlook and sense of humor of Montanans.

Given all that Janet and I witnessed, it begs the question: “Why would Montana Governor Steve Bullock ever want to win the Presidency and move to Washington DC?”

Subtle, but funny….

Stay tuned for the next several month’s post on Thebeerchaser where I will tell the rich story of not only The Dirty Shame Saloon, but convey the highlights of many of the other historic bars we hit in Montana, North and South Dakota, Wyoming and Idaho.

Also the great breweries, especially in Montana that now rank it second per capita in the US on number of breweries according to Statistica.com – only Vermont exceeds it while Oregon comes in at #4, right behind Maine.

Another example of Montana humor – in a field by Yaak.

List of Bars and Breweries Visited on our Trip

(The first thirty were visited by Don and the remainder by Don and Janet)

Name of Establishment	City	State
Kootenai Brewing	Bonners Ferry	Idaho
Dirty Shame Saloon	Yaak	Montana
Yaak River Tavern	Yaak	Montana
Silver Spur Bar	Troy	Montana
Cabinet Mountain Brewing	Libby	Montana
Mint Bar	Libby	Montana
Trappers’ Saloon	Eureka	Montana
Bull Dog Saloon	Whitefish	Montana
Blue Moon Bar and Nite Club	Columbia Falls	Montana
VFW Bar	Kalispell	Montana
Moose Saloon	Kalispell	Montana
Bias Brewing	Kalispell	Montana
Del’s Bar	Somers	Montana
Higher Ground Brewing	Hamilton	Montana
Bitter Root Brewing	Hamilton	Montana
Sawmill Saloon	Darby	Montana
Antler Saloon	Wisdom	Montana
Wise River Club	Wise River	Montana
Dewey	Dewey	Montana
Club Moderne	Anaconda	Montana
Owl Bar	Anaconda	Montana
Katabatic Brewing	Livingston	Montana
Livingston Bar and Grille	Livingston	Montana
Neptune Brewing	Livingston	Montana
Murray Hotel Bar	Livingston	Montana
Mint Bar and Grill	Livingston	Montana
Stockman Bar	Livingston	Montana
Whiskey Creek Saloon	Livingston	Montana
Atlas Bar	Columbus	Montana
Caboose Saloon	Laurel	Montana
Angry Hanks Microbrewery	Billings	Montana
Montana Brewing Co.	Billings	Montana
Uberbrew	Billings	Montana
Montana Bar	Miles City	Montana
Tubbs Pub	Miles City	Montana
Little Missouri Saloon	Medora	North Dakota
Boots Bar and Grill	Medora	North Dakota
Wild Bill Bar	Deadwood	South Dakota
Zymurcracy Beer Co.	Rapid City	South Dakota
Firehouse Brewing	Rapid City	South Dakota
Tallie’s Silver Spoon	Rapid City	South Dakota
State Game Lodge Bar	Custer	South Dakota
Smith Alley Brewing	Sheridan	Wyoming
Black Tooth Brewing	Sheridan	Wyoming
Plonk Wine Bar	Bozeman	Montana
Outlaw Brewing	Bozeman	Montana
Bunkhouse Brewing	Bozeman	Montana
North Idaho Brewing	Wallace	Idaho

Bitter Root Brewing in Hamilton

Hey! Have you Seen Thebeerchaser During the Last Seven Years?

Posted on January 17, 2019 by Thebeerchaser

Overlooking the Lauterbrunnen Valley in 2013

Those of you who are followers of Thebeerchaser.com may know from the 2018 Annual Report that the total number of watering holes – bars, pubs, breweries, taverns, saloons, etc. visited since I commenced this hobby in August, 2011, stood at 287 at the end of 2018.

Laura and Ryan Keene and Kenzie Dettman outside Stammtisch in 2014

111 of these establishments were in the Portland metro area with the remaining 176 scattered over a large geographical expanse including several cities in Europe, bars and breweries in Alaska, Hawaii, many regions throughout the continental US and all across Oregon.

The Oxford Saloon on our 2016 trip to Missoula, Montana

These ranged from Idaho and Montana to Wisconsin to Maine, New York City and Boston, to the Southeast in cities including Asheville, NC; Savannah and Charleston, South Carolina. Then there was Beerchasing in the desert – Phoenix and Scottsdale. Then back to the west coast in northern California.

Janet with Barb and John Senger at the Sink in Boulder, Colorado

And, of course, some of my absolute favorites are scattered throughout Oregon – from Baker City and Joseph to Burns, Prineville and Madras and down the entire stretch of the Oregon coast from Astoria to Bandon.

The Embers Brew House in Joseph, Oregon

Wait! Don’t forget the Benedictine Brewery and Taproom in Mt. Angel, Oregon where those raising a mug of Father Martin Grassel’s flagship brew – Black Habit – toast the Brewery’s slogan – “Taste and Believe.”

I thought it was important to develop an accurate and comprehensive list of these establishments for those who might want to use this blog as a resource. Okay, it was also just for my own memories…..

While it took quite a few hours to go back and compile the specific dates, the type of bar (for those in Portland) and location, the result is set forth below – categorized by year and whether it was in Portland or in a venue outside the Rose City .

If you want to find out about a specific watering hole visited (almost always at least twice for those in Portland) or if you are planning to hit Stanley, Idaho and want to find out about the history of Casanova Jack’s Stanley Rod and Gun Whitewater Saloon, you have a couple of options. An asterisk indicates the establishment is now no longer in operation.

Thebeerchaser outside the Stanley Rod and Gun Whitewater Saloon

You can look in the data base below this chart and in the far right column, the month of the post will be identified. On the right side of the screen when you are in Thebeerchaser.com you will see a field to select the month and year from Thebeerchaser.com archives.

Alternatively, you can enter the name of the bar or brewery in the search field in the upper right of your screen and you will usually see the appropriate post although sometimes I reference a bar in more than one. In the latter case, there is usually a link to the main reference.

Thebeerchaser’s Composite List of Bars, Taverns and Pubs

Year	Portland	Outside Portland	Yearly Total	Composite Total
2018	12	30	42	287
2017	15	27	42	244
2016	14	39	53	202
2015	11	36	47	149
2014	17	18	35	102
2013	13	21	34	68
2012	20	5	25	34
2011	9	0	9
Total	111	176	287

2018 Portland Area Bars

	Name	Location	Type	Date of Post
2018-1	The Salty Rhino	West Linn	Neighborhood	December
2018-2	Palomar	SE	Cocktail	December
2018-3	Bar 33	Sellwood	Neighborhood	September
2018-4	Benedictine Brewery	Mount Angel	Brewery and Taproom	August
2018-5	Brew Barge	Downtown (River)	Miscellaneous	August
2018-6	The Happy Fortune	SW	Miscellaneous	August
2018-7	The Standard	NE	Dive	June
2018-8	The Dockside	North	Neighborhood	June
2018-9	Oaks Bottom Pub	Sellwood	Neighborhood	April
2018-10	Wilders Bar and Café	NE	Neighborhood	April
2018-11	Woodsman Tavern *	SE	Neighborhood	February
2018-12	John’s Market Place	Multnomah Village	Bottle Shop	January

The Dockside – a classic in North Portland with the best hashbrowns in the City

2018 Bars Outside of Portland

	Name	Location	Type	Date of Post
2018-1	North Mountain Brewing	Phoenix	Brewery and Pub	April
2018-2	OHSO Brewing	North Scottsdale	Brewery and Pub	April
2018-3	McFate Brewing	Scottsdale	Brewery and Pub	April
2018-4	Wren House Brewing	Scottsdale	Brewery and Pub	April
2018-5	Scottsdale Beer Company	Scottsdale	Brewery and Pub	April
2018-6	Helton Brewing	Phoenix	Brewery and Pub	April
2018-7	Mesquite River Brewing	Scottsdale	Brewery and Pub	April
2018-8	Sun Up Brewing	Scottsdale	Brewery and Pub	February
2018-9	OHSO Brewing	Phoenix Airport	Taphouse	February
2018-10	Four Peaks Brewing	Phoenix	Brewery and Pub	February
2018-11	Goldwater Brewing	Phoenix	Brewery and Pub	February
2018-12	Two Brothers’ Brewing	Scottsdale	Brewery and Pub	February
2018-13	Durty Nelly’s Bar	North Boston	Dive Bar	October 30
2018-14	Shipyard Brewing	Portland, Maine	Brewery and Taproom	October 30
2018-15	Sebago Brewing	Portland, Maine	Brewpub	October 30
2018-16	Rising Tide Brewing	Portland, Maine	Brewery and Taproom	October 30
2018-17	Marshall Wharf Brewing	Belfast, Maine	Brewery and Taproom	October 30
2018-18	Sea Dog Brewing	Camden, Maine	Brewpub	October 30
2018-19	Rock Harbor Brewing	Rock Harbor, Maine	Brewery and Taproom	October 30
2018-20	Atlantic Brewing	Bar Harbor, Maine	Taproom	October 18
2018-21	Cottage Street Pub	Bar Harbor, Maine	Dive Bar	October 18
2018-22	Island Bar	SW Harbor, Maine	Dive Bar	October 18
2018-23	Sips	Southwest Harbor, Maine	Cocktail Bar	October 18
2018-24	Ebenezer’s Pub	Lovell, Maine	Neighborhood	October 9
2018-25	Standard Gastropub	Bridgton, Maine	Gas Station Bar	October 9
2018-26	Sea Dog Brewing	South Portland, Maine	Brewpub	October 9
2018-27	Heartland Brewing	New York City	Brewery and Pub	October 1
2018-28	District Tap House	New York City	Taphouse	October 1
2018-29	Mariott Pulse Rooftop Bar	New York City	Hotel Bar	October 1
2018-30	Mariott Pulse Patio Bar	New York City	Hotel Bar	October 1

Historic dive bar, Durty Nelly’s in Boston’s North End

2017 Portland Area Bars

	Name of Venue	Location	Type	Date of Post
2017-1	Multnomah Whiskey Library	Downtown	Whiskey Bar	January
2017-2	Nineteen 33 Taproom	West Linn	Neighborhood	February
2017-3	Buffalo Bill’s Saloon	Beavercreek	Neighborhood	February
2017-4	Ancestry Brewing	Tualatin	Brewery	February
2017-5	The Independent	Downtown	Sports Bar	March
2017-6	NEPO 42	Northeast	Neighborhood	April
2017-7	Burnside Brewing	East	Brewery	April
2017-8	Gil’s Speakeasy	Southeast	Dive Bar	May
2017-9	Flyboy Brewing	Tigard	Brewery	May
2017-10	Cascade Brewing Barrel House	Southeast	Brewpub	June
2017-11	Labrewatory	North	Brewery	June
2017-12	Renners	Multnomah Village	Dive Bar	August
2017-13	Slow Bar	Southeast	Neighborhood	October
2017-14	TC O’Leary’s Irish Pub	Northeast	Neighborhood	October
2017-15	ZARZ	Downtown	Whiskey Bar	December

The Multnomah Whiskey Library

2017 Bars Outside Portland

	Name of Venue	Location	Type	Date of Post
2017-1	Nauti Mermaid Beach Club	Lincoln City, OR	Neighborhood	July
2017-2	Scooters Pub	Milwaukee, Wisc.	Neighborhood	July
2017-3	Dukes on the Water	Milwaukee, Wisc.	Dive	July
2017-4	Water Street Brewery	Milwaukee, Wisc.	Brewery	July
2017-5	Badger State Brewery	Green Bay, Wisc.	Brewery	July
2017-6	Hinterland Brewery	Green Bay, Wisc.	Brewery	July
2017-7	Door County Brewing	Bailey’s Harbor, Wisc.	Brewery	August
2017-8	AC Tap	Sister Bay, Wisc	Dive	August
2017-9	Coyote Road House	Bailey’s Harbor, Wisc.	Neighborhood	August
2017-10	Cornerstone Pub	Bailey’s Harbor, Wisc.	Neighborhood	August
2017-11	Pourman’s Bar	Milwaukee, Wisc.	Neighborhood	September
2017-12	Lake Front Brewing	Milwaukee, Wisc.	Brewery	September
2017-13	McGillycuddy’s Bar	Milwaukee, Wisc.	Neighborhood	September
2017-14	Bar None	Milwaukee, Wisc.	Neighborhood	September
2017-15	The Ale Asylum Riverhouse	Milwaukee, Wisc.	Brewpub	September
2017-16	Yachats Brewing	Yachats, OR	Brewery	November
2017-17	Defeat River Brewing	Reedsport, OR	Brewery	November
2017-18	Seven Devils Brewing	Coos Bay, OR	Brewery	November
2017-19	Bandon Brewery	Bandon, OR	Brewery	November
2017-20	Broken Anchor Bar and Grill	Bandon, OR	Neighborhood	November
2017-21	The Beverage Barn	Bandon, OR	Bottle Shop	November
2017-22	Arch Rock Brewing	Gold Beach, OR	Brewery	November
2017-23	Chetco Brewing	Brookings, OR	Brewery	November
2017-24	Six Rivers Brewing	McKinleyville, CA	Brewery	December
2017-25	Humboldt Regeneration	McKinleyville, CA	Brewery	December
2017-26	Lost Coast Brewery	Eureka, CA	Brewery	December
2017-27	Mad River Brewery	Blue Lake, CA	Brewery	December

AC Tap outside Bailey’s Harbor, Wisconsin

2016 Portland Area Bars

2016-1	Lake Oswego	The Hop’N Cork	Neighborhood	January
2016-2	NE	Sloan’s Tavern	Neighborhood	February
2016-3	SE	Hair of the Dog Brewery	Brewery	February
2016-4	SW	Barlow Artisenal Bar	Misc.	March
2016-5	NW	Life of Riley Tavern	Dive	March
2016-6	SW	The Yardhouse	Misc.	April
2016-7	N	The Rambler	Neighborhood	May
2016-8	SE	The Ranger Station	Neighborhood	June
2016-9	SW	MoMo Bar Maximo	Dive	July
2016-10	NE	Billy Ray’s Neighborhood Dive	Dive	August
2016-11	SE	Mad Sons Pub *	Neighborhood	September
2016-12	SW	The Fulton Pub	Brewery	October
2016-13	NW	Bridgeport Brewery	Brewery	November
2016-14	SW	Mummy’s Bar and Restaurant	Misc.	December

Beerchaser regulars and trial lawyers, Brian King, Brian Flanagan and John Mansfield outside Billy Rays Neighborhood Dive Bar

2016 Bars Outside Portland

2016-1	Tamarack Brewing	Missoula, MT	February
2016-2	Stockman Bar	Missoula, MT	February
2016-3	Big Sky Brewing	Missoula, MT	February
2016-4	Flathead Lake Brewing	Missoula, MT	February
2016-5	Draught Works Brewery	Missoula, MT	February
2016-6	Charlie B’s Bar	Missoula, MT	February
2016-7	Oxford Bar	Missoula, MT	February
2016-8	Plonk Wine Bar	Missoula, MT	February
2016-9	Kauai Island Brewing Company	Kauai	May
2016-10	Kauai Beer Company	Kauai	May
2016-11	Duke’s Bar and Restaurant	Kauai	May
2016-12	Nawiliwili Tavern	Kauai	May
2016-13	Blackfoot River Brewing	Helena, MT	July
2016-14	Lewis and Clark Brewing	Helena, MT	July
2016-15	Grand Teton Park Lodge	Grand Teton NP	July
2016-16	Local Restaurant and Bar	Jackson, WY	July
2016-17	Gather Food and Drink	Jackson, WY	July
2016-18	Million Dollar Cowboy Bar	Jackson, WY	July
2016-19	Melvin Brewing	Jackson, WY	July
2016-20	Wild West Pizzeria and Saloon	West Yellowstone	July
2016-21	Couer d’aline Resort Bar	Couer d’aline	August
2016-22	The Moose Lounge	Couer d’aline	August
2016-23	The Corner Bar	Couer d’aline	August
2016-24	Chained-Up Brewpub	Couer d’aline	August
2016-25	Crafted Taphouse and Kitchen	Kennewick, WA	August
2016-26	Ice Harbor Brewery	Kennewick, WA	August
2016-27	McCall Brewing Company	McCall, ID	August
2016-28	Salmon River Brewery	McCall, ID	August
2016-29	Stanley Rod and Gun Whitewater Saloon	Stanley, ID	September
2016-30	The Kasino Club	Stanley, ID	September
2016-31	Redfish Lake Lodge Bar	Stanley, ID	September
2016-32	Caldera Brewing	Ashland, OR	October 24
2016-33	Blackbird Kitchen and Bar	Sacramento	October 31
2016-34	Hock Farm Craft Provisions	Sacramento	October 31
2016-35	Dive Bar	Sacramento	October 31
2016-36	Woody’s Brewing	Redding, CA	November
2016-37	The Pour House	Murphys, CA	November
2016-38	Murphys Hotel and Saloon	Murphys, CA	November
2016-39	Murphys Irish Pub	Murphys, CA	November

The Moose Lounge in the heart of Couer dalene, Idaho

2015 Portland Area Bars

2015-1	Suburb	Brannon’s in Beaverton *	Neighborhood	March
2015-2	NE	Oregon Public House	Non-profit Pub	March
2015-3	SE	Double Barrel Tavern	Dive	April
2015-4	N	Ecliptic Brewing	Brewery and Pub	May
2015-5	SW	Yamhill Pub	Grunge	May
2015-6	NW	Low Brow Lounge	Dive	June
2015-7	SW	Pope Bourbon House	Cocktail	June
2015-8	SW	Kelly’s Olympian	Historic Dive	August
2015-9	N	St. John’s Pub	Historic	November
2015-10	NW	The New Old Lompoc *	Neighborhood	November
2015-11	SE	Produce Row Café	Historic	December

Historic Kellys Olympian in Downtown Portland

2015 Bars Outside Portland

2015-1	The Sink	Boulder, Colorado	February
2015-2	Post Brewing	Boulder, Colorado	February
2015-3	Crystal Springs Brewing	Boulder, Colorado	February
2015-4	Gravity Brewing	Louisville, Colorado	February
2015-6	Avery Brewing	Boulder, Colorado	February
2015-7	Post Brewing	Boulder, Colorado	February
2015-8	New Belgium Brewing	Fort Collins, Colorado	May 19
2015-9	Mayor of Old Town	Fort Collins, Colorado	May19
2015-10	The Town Pump	Fort Collins, Colorado	May 19
2015-11	Phantom Canyon Brewing	Colorado Springs, Colorado	May 19
2015-12	Ritz Bar and Grill	Colorado Springs, Colorado	May 19
2015-13	Breckinridge Brewery	Breckenridge, Colorado	May 29
2015-14	Ollie’s Pub and Grub	Breckenridge, Colorado	May 29
2015-15	Gold Pan Saloon	Breckenridge, Colorado	May 29
2015-16	Angel Hollow Bar	Breckenridge, Colorado	May 29
2015-17	Après Handcrafted Libations	Breckenridge, Colorado	May 29
2015-18	Broken Compass Brewery	Breckenridge, Colorado	May 29
2015-19	Dillon Dam Brewery	Dillon, Colorado	May 29
2015-20	Eleventh Street Pub & Bistro	Atlanta, GA	July
2015-21	The Nook on Piedmont	Atlanta, GA	July
2015-22	Max’ Wine Dive	Atlanta, GA	July
2015-23	Jack of the Woods Public House	Asheville, SC	July
2015-24	The Thirsty Monk	Asheville, SC	July
2015-25	Wicked Weed Brewery	Asheville, SC	July
2015-26	Lexington Avenue Brewery	Asheville, SC	July
2015-27	Blind Tiger Pub	Charleston, SC	July
2015-28	South End Brewery & Smokehouse	Charleston, SC	July
2015-29	Charleston Beer Exchange	Charleston, SC	July
2015-30	The Gin Joint	Charleston, SC	July
2015-31	The Boar’s Head Grill & Tavern	Savannah, GA	September
2015-32	JJ Bonerz Sports Bar	Savannah, GA	September
2015-33	Moon River Brew Brewery	Savannah, GA	September
2015-34	Churchill’s Pub	Savannah, GA	September
2015-35	Savannah Distillery Ale House	Savannah, GA	September
2015-36	Pinky Master’s *	Savannah, GA	September

The Gold Pan Saloon in Breckenridge, Colorado

2014 Portland Area Bars

2014-1	The Nest	SE	Neighborhood	January
2014-2	Skyline Tavern	NW	Historic	January
2014-3	Sandy Hut	NE	Dive	February
2014-4	The Cheerful Bullpen	SW	Sports	February
2014-5	Saraveza	N	Neighborhood	March
2014-6	Bazi Bier Brassiere	SE	Neighborhood	April
2014-7	Bailey’s Tap Room/The Upper Lip	NW	Taproom	April
2014-8	Crackerjacks Pub	NW	Neighborhood	April
2014-9	Quimby’s	NW	Neighborhood	April
2014-10	Sniff Café	NW	Miscellaneous	April
2014-11	The Lost and Found	N	Neighborhood	June
2014-12	The Beer Mongers	SE	Bottle Shop	June
2014-13	Stammtisch	NE	Neighborhood	July
2014-14	Portland Peda Lounge	SE	Miscellaneous	August
2014-15	Club 21 *	NE	Dive	September
2014-16	The Richmond Bar	SE	Cocktail	November
2014-17	Marathon Taverna	NW	Sports	December

Owner of the Bazi Bierbrasserie, Hilda Stevens holds Thebeerchaser logo while part of our walking group finishes its food and bier

2014 Bars Outside Portland

2014-1	Glacier Brewhouse	Anchorage, Alaska	July 8	February
2014-2	Darwin’s Theory	Anchorage, Alaska	July 8
2014-3	Haines Brewery	Haines, Alaska	July 17	February
2014-4	Red Dog Saloon	Juneau, Alaska	July 17
2014-5	Shipboard Bars	Statandem – Holland America	July 17
2014-6	Lumpy’s Landing	Dundee, OR	September
2014-7	The Old Oregon Saloon	Lincoln City, OR	September
2014-8	The Nauti Mermaid	Lincoln City, OR	September
2014-9	Road House 101	Lincoln City, OR	October
2014-10	Snug Harbor Bar & Grill	Lincoln City, OR	October
2014-11	Pelican Brewery	Pacific City, OR	October
2014-12	The Oar House	Pacific City, OR	October
2014-13	Sportsman Pub and Grub	Pacific City, OR	October
2014-14	Cruise Inn	Lincoln City, OR	November
2014-15	Bay Haven Inn	Newport, OR	November
2014-16	Mad Dog Country Tavern	Newport, OR	November
2014-17	Hoovers Bar and Grill	Newport, OR	November
2014-18	Tidepool Pub	Depoe Bay, OR	November

Lincoln City’s Cruise Inn

2013 Portland Area Bars

2013-1	The Grand Café	SE	Dive	January
2013-2	Belmont Inn	SE	Neighborhood	March
2013-3	Tugboat Brewery *	SW	Brewery and Pub	March
2013-4	Belmont Station	SE	Bottle Shop	April
2013-5	Tanker Bar	SE	Dive	April
2013-6	Beer	SE	Neighborhood	April
2013-7	Horse Brass Pub	SE	Historic Brew Pub	May
2013-8	Sidecar 11	N	Neighborhood	June
2013-9	Sasquatch Brewery	Cedar Hills	Brewery and Pub	July
2013-10	The Slammer	SE	Dive	August
2013-11	Davis Street Tavern *	NW	Neighborhood	October
2013-12	Slabtown *	NW	Dive	October
2013-13	Church	NE	Neighborhood	December

The Slammer in the Barmuda Triangle

2013 Bars Outside Portland

2013-1	Café Karpershoek	Amsterdam, Netherland	June
2013-2	Bier Brewery	Anaheim, Austria	July
2013-3	Hells Tavern	Rothenberg, Germany	July
2013-4	The Devil’s Forest Pub	Venice, Italy	July
2013-5	Bacaro Jazz Café	Venice, Italy	July
2013-6	Miscellana Café and Pub	Rome, Italy	August
2013-7	La Cantina Di Miky	Vernazza, Italy	September
2013-8	The Horner Pub	Lauterbrunner, Switzerland	September
2013-9	Schilthorn Taverne	Lauterbrunner, Switzerland	September
3013-10	The Publican	Beaune, France	October
2013-11	The Beer Station	Paris, France	October
2013-12	La Vin Couer	Paris, France	October
2013-13	Long Branch Bar	La Grande, OR	November 4
2013-14	Cascades Lake Brewery	La Grande, OR	November 4
2013-15	Horseshoe Tavern	Prineville, OR	November 4
2013-16	Solstice Brew Pub	Prineville, OR	November 4
2013-17	Hideout Saloon	La Grande, OR	November 4
2013-18	10 Depot Street	La Grande, OR	November 14
2013-19	Mt. Emily Ale House	Baker, OR	November 14
2013-20	Bull Ridge Brewery	Baker, OR	November 14
2013-21	Central Pastime Tavern	Burns, OR	November 20

Café Karpershoek – the oldest bar in Amsterdam – founded in 1606

2012 Portland Area Bars

2012-1	Dixie Tavern	NW	Dive Club	February
2012-2	Ash Street Saloon *	SW	Club	February
2012-3	Migration Brewery	NE	Brewery and Pub	February
2012-4	Laurelthirst Pub	NE	Neighborhood	February
2012-5	Hawthorne Hideaway	SE	Neighborhood	March
2012-6	Mock Crest Tavern	N	Historic	May
2012-7	Interurban	N	Neighborhood	May
2012-8	Muddy Ruder Pub	SE	Neighborhood	June
2012-9	County Cork *	NE	Neighborhood	June
2012-10	Sidecar 11	N	Neighborhood	June
2012-11	The Cheerful Tortoise	SW	Historic Sports	June
2012-12	Bottles	NE	Bottles Shop	July
2012-13	Goose Hollow Inn	SW	Historic Neighborhood	July
2012-14	The Lutz Tavern	SE	Historic Neighborhood	August
2012-15	Gold Dust Meridian	SE	Neighborhood	October
2012-16	Bar of the Gods	SE	Dive	October
2012-17	Claudias	SE	Historic Sports	November
2012-18	White Eagle Saloon	N	Historic	November
2012-19	1856	NE	Bottle Shop	November
2012-20	The Ship Tavern	Multnomah Village	Dive	December

Former Mayor and owner of the Goose Hollow Inn, Bud Clark, with Jim Westwood, John Terry and Bud’s daughter when we Beerchased at the Goose

2012 Bars Outside Portland

2012-1	Astoria Brewery Wet Dog Café	Astoria, OR	September
2012-2	Desdemona Club	Astoria, OR	September
2012-3	The Pour House	Port Townsend, WA	September
2012-4	Embers Brew Pub	Joseph OR	October
2012-5	Terminal Gravity Brewery	Enterprise, OR	October

The Desdemona Club in Astoria, where Laura the bartender explains to Dave Booher, the origin of the nickname, “The Dirty D.”

2011 Portland Area Bars

2011-1	Brooklyn Park Pub		SE	Dive	August
2011-2	Yukon Tavern		SE	Dive	August
2011-3	Gladstone Street Tavern		SE	Neighborhood	September
2011-4	The Twilight Room		N	Historic	September
2011-5	Joe’s Cellar		NW	Dive	September
2011-6	Buffalo Gap Tavern		SW	Historic	November
2011-7		Prost	N	Brew Pub	November
2011-8	Amnesia Brewery *		N	Brewery and Pub	November
2011-9	Coalition Brewery		SE	Brewery and Taproom	November

Observing the tradition at Prost where you don’t let the 2-liter boot touch the table once it starts the rounds or………

I have often gotten requests to identify my favorite spots — also those to which I would not return. Since I subscribe to the quote below, I have most notably avoided the latter. But after almost eight years it may be enlightening for some to view Thebeerchaser’s humble opinion on the all-stars and those few given the wealth of wonderful places to raise a mug, I would not return.

Samuel Johnson – 18th century writer, poet and playwright and drinker….

“There is nothing which has yet been contrived by man, by which so much happiness is produced as a good tavern.” Samuel Johnson

I will therefore, in the next few months, publish some shorter posts on my favorites – by category i.e. dive bar, neighborhood pub, brewery, etc. – both in Portland and outside Portland.

These will be integrated with posts about new bars I am visiting and reviewing Also, expect to see the short list of habitats that Thebeerchaser recommends that you avoid.

For example, expect to see the picture below and a short description of the Ship Tavern in Multnomah Village in the post about favorite Portland area dive bars.

I’ve also fielded inquiries about how with the number of bars visited, I have avoided gaining 100 pounds and/or a stint at the Betty Ford Clinic. On the first question, while I haven’t attained my goal of getting back to my original weight – 9 pounds 9 ounces…(Sorry!), thanks to my wife who is an outstanding walker and hiker as well as regular trips to the gym, I have pretty much maintained my pre-retirement poundage

Mingling with the friendly regulars at the classic dive bar Club 21 in 2014 – gone but not forgotten!

It should also be noted that notwithstanding the title, this blog is primarily about bars – not the beer itself.

I spend most of my time in the watering holes, nursing a pint while talking to the bartender and the regulars about the history of the bar, the distinguishing characteristics and noting the signs, memorabilia and décor – which in most bars and a lot of brew pubs is distinct and worth talking about. (The picture from the Club 21 is a great example of the great people I’ve met.)

And, of course, on the majority of visits, I am with friends where the conversation and comradery are paramount and the beer secondary – notwithstanding this photo of former Beerchaser-of-the-Quarter Jim Westwood with members of the Jack Faust clan at the Yard House in Portland! (Although the company was great, the Yard House is on Thebeerchaser’s “No Return” list of bars to be published in the future.

As an example, how can you be overly concerned with your brewski when you are listening to former Mayor Bud Clark, explain the amazing history of the “Expose Yourself to Art” poster while we were at the Goose Hollow Inn (See the picture above)

Jim Westwood, Kevin Fischer, Amy Faust, Jack Faust and Thebeerchaser

The armchair philosopher who stated, “A bar is better than the newspaper for public discussion.” was correct and we should add the social media to that quote. So I will plug on with Thebeerchaser’s Tour of Bars, Taverns and Pubs – only about 400 left to explore in Portland!

Cheers!

Cheers from Thebeerchaser

Buffalo Bill’s Saloon – A Haven in the Hamlet

Posted on February 14, 2017 by Thebeerchaser

Buffalo Bill’s

While there have been very few bars I’ve visited which have been disappointing in the five and one-half years on Thebeerchaser’s Tour of Bars, Taverns or Pubs, there are less than a handful in which a visit and the experience transcend that above all the others.

Lunch at the Central Pastime in Burns

They simply radiate charisma and character – maybe it’s the combined personality of the regulars, the bar’s story or history, the tales of the staff and the bartenders along with the trappings that convey an ambiance that one wants to bottle.

Whatever the composition, it is an abstract presence that draws one in and makes you want to stay.

The Embers – on Main Street in Joseph..

Such was the case with the Central Pastime Tavern in Burns, the Embers Brew Pub in Joseph and Charlie B’s – an historic Missoula, Montana bar and finally, the Stanley Idaho Rod and Gun Whitewater Saloon. (https://thebeerchaser.com/2016/09/08/beerchasing-in-idaho-part-ii-stanley-and-the-sawtooths/)

Charlie B’s in Missoula

You will note that these all are located away from the major metropolitan centers of the US.

They tend to be in the rural or “frontier” regions and reflect what noted historian Frederick Jackson Turner articulated in his essay “The Significance of the Frontier on American History” – the Frontier Thesis. More on this below…..

Well, I have good news for my Beerchasing friends in Portland. You can experience this type of venue without packing up and embarking on a road trip to another western state or even having to head east across the Cascade range.

Jackson Street – great in the 60s

The entrance to the Beavercreek campus…

Thebeerchaser’s high school alma mater is Oregon City High School – now located on S. Beavercreek Road in the more rural area south of Oregon City and only 18.3 miles from the Tugboat Brewery – one of my favorite pubs in the heart of downtown Portland. (Okay, when I attended OCHS in the ’60’s, it was on Jackson Street right in OC proper)

—————–

If one then continues south on this rural road another 2.9 miles – only about five minutes – you arrive in the Hamlet of Beavercreek – one of only four such jurisdictions in Oregon. And at intersection of Leland and S Beavercreek Road, you will come across the bar called Buffalo Bill’s (hereafter BB’s) Note: As will be referenced below, the bar has recently returned to its roots and is now officially named the Beavercreek Saloon.

1966 Oregon City Classmate at the entrance for lunch

1966 Oregon City Classmate, Dave Larson, at the entrance for lunch

In the 2010 census, Beavercreek had a population of 4,485 and consists of:

“……a small grocery store, post office, café, tavern, hair salon, drive up coffee, veterinary clinic, automotive shop, gas station, well drilling business, a grange hall and a newer fire department not far down the road.” (Yelp 4/16/15)

“In the summer of 2006, the citizens of Beavercreek voted to become Oregon’s first hamlet, a system of quasi-government which exists in Oregon. A final hearing by the board of county commissioners on the formation of the hamlet took place in September 2006, and officially recognized the community as the Hamlet of Beavercreek.” (Wikipedia)

Now admittedly, on the outside, BB’s is nothing special. It’s entrance is nondescript and it’s surrounded by a very large parking lot with scads of pick-ups and large SUVs – most of which are work vehicles rather than just recreational.

But a step through the door is transformational. You will see buffalo head and trophies from hunts of elk, antelope and deer hanging from the wall plus the skilled taxidermy of bobcat and brown bear along with interesting western memorabilia and farm equipment ranging from traps, old whiskey bottles, cowboy gear and numerous western pictures including one of the namesake, Buffalo Bill Cody.

And these items are not tacky knockoffs. They are spaced to enhance the ample spaces which house a number of larger tables and booths. For the sports-minded, they have a number of wide-screen TVs – including the NFL Ticket – but these don’t interfere with the ambiance. There is also a cool horseshoe bar immediately in front of the entrance which is where they have thirteen beers on tap.

Although the lunch crowd was more staid, this Friday night was rockin’ and there were groups playing pool at the two pool tables, couples sitting at the bar and almost every table was occupied by the end of the evening – everyone appeared to having a good time.

Frederick Jackson Turner –

Now as mentioned above, Frederick Jackson Turner’s frontier thesis asserted that:

“….the moving western frontier shaped American democracy and the American character…..This produced a new type of citizen – one with the power to tame the wild and one upon whom the wild had conferred strength and individuality. The forging of the unique and rugged American identity.” (Wikipedia)

That night, I had the pleasure, at dinner, of spending two hours talking to a fascinating guy – the owner – Patrick Whitmore. I think JF Turner would have enjoyed meeting Whitmore too – born and raised in Beavercreek – and hearing about his life since graduation from Molalla High School in 1957 since he epitomizes the individual embodied in Turner’s work. More about him below.

Our crew that Friday night.

Patrick and cousin, Jerry Calavan

One of the great attributes of BB’s is the food – quality, quantity and price and perhaps a quote that night from Patrick, reaffirming my sentiments about his character.

Two of our party ordered salads rather than the hamburgers which captivated the rest of us. We had already made comments about the prices being so reasonable – for example, a 1/3 pound cheeseburger with a bunch of fries for $9.00 – (A happy-hour – burger is $4.50……)

But then our server, Christal, brought the salads – one was a cobb and the other a chef and a collective gasp broke out – literally! They were gigantic and filled with good stuff – all for the price of $10.50 and 9.95 respectively. One of the guys in our party who is a small businessman, asked Patrick rhetorically, “How can you make any money when your prices are so low and your food so plentiful and good??”

Enough for a convention of vegetarians….

Patrick’s immediate rejoinder was, “Well, we may not be making a lot of money, but we’re making a lot of friends.!” (He was correct about making friends that evening and I think beyond that Friday and he is also a savvy businessman).

The enthusiasm for the new venture was pervasive with staff as well. We had excellent service by Christal and the bartender.

People enjoyed the French fries and Patrick commented about how he personally inspects the potatoes based on his farming experience to ensure the quality.

And what did our host have that evening? One of the new specials on the menu – steak and lobster – that and prime rib are Friday and Saturday night specials along with “all-you-can-eat catfish” every other Thursday for $9.95. The other Thursdays feature bacon-wrapped meatloaf for $14.95. I noted that when it was time to settle up, Patrick paid for his dinner rather than have it “on the house.” His cousin, Jerry, told me that this was to be fair to his partner in the venture.

Steak and lobster – but not on the house….

Now, you can also choose to have breakfast or lunch at Kissin Kate’s Cafe, adjacent to and connected with BBS. The corned beef and hash looked pretty inviting and the breakfasts get very good reviews:

“Homemade breakfast, my husband loves their Corn beef hash. Denver omelet, light and fluffy. Great food and a must try.” (Trip Advisor – 1/23/16)

Power breakfasts….

As I mentioned previously, I had lunch there the same week with three of my classmates from Oregon City High School – the class of 1966. All of us also were pleased with the reuben, turkey wrap and burgers we devoured – and the French fries still passed the test with flying colors.

Still chugging after 50 years from graduation – Larson, Benski and Daiker

The aforementioned also gives me a chance for a quick “shout out” to OCHS for it’s 94% on-time graduation rate last year – top in the state.

A follow-up story by the Oregonian’s Betsy Hammond, entitled, “At Oregon City High School, teachers showing students they care has made a huge difference – When Actions Equal Words” also told a compelling story about the community of teachers and students led by Principal, Tom Lovell.

Principal Tom Love

“Oregon City’s on-time graduation rate rose by 5 percentage points to reach 94 percent, including 91 percent among low-income students. That’s an accomplishment unmatched by the 40 other big high schools in the Portland area.”

I met Tom last summer when he agreed to meet with me to provide some statistics about the school that I could use for our 50th reunion – a great and charismatic guy – I can understand why he and his team have achieved the results.

Kelly and Patrick - plans for the future..

Barbara and Patrick – plans for the future..

Besides making major changes to the menu, they have also updated their computer system and it was interesting hearing Patrick and his friend, Barbara Brooke, who is the General Manager, talk about some of their future dreams for the place.

These include having an expanded selection of beers on tap, a new web-site, remodeling and changing the name back to the original “Beavercreek Saloon.” (I have a feeling that the photo of Buffalo Bill will still be present……).

A permanent fixture…..

And since it is a compelling story, a little bit more about Patrick Whitmore. After high school graduation, he completed an apprentice course in sheet metal work and left the family farm to work for Boeing in Seattle.

Seeing the manner that many of the workers were treated by the big corporation when the economy went south, after twenty years, he decided he wanted more control over his own destiny. He and a friend returned to Beavercreek and grew potatoes (one reason he takes particular interest in the quality of BB’s French fries.)

They soon needed a structure to house their product so they built a pole barn with a sheet metal roof – one that Patrick’s neighbor wanted replicated on his property. He and his partner formed a successful construction company and did work for Clackamas County. The scope of their work expanded and ultimately led to the formation of Morrison Construction which does residential and commercial construction including apartments and condominiums.

Jerry Calavan, Steve Oltman and Patrick Whitmore with Thebeerchaser logo

This Beavercreek native, turned entrepreneur, has also been involved in a number of other enterprises and is active in civic affairs as well. You will also be able to find him and Barbara on the slopes of Mt. Hood during ski season in their “spare time.”

They have enthusiastically set a course for their new vision and take a drive in the country to check them out. I typically quote from some of the more interesting reviews and comments on social media when writing these narratives, but given the changes that have occurred in the last six months, they will be largely omitted this time due to the short transition. Let’s finish with the two below which I think sum up the situation aptly:

“If you make it out to Beavercreek stop in – the food’s really good, service was excellent with a friendly atmosphere… I heard that it was under new management and wow it really shows.” (Facebook 10/22/16)

“Great place. Super fun. The new owners are a breath of fresh air. Ill be back !!” (Google two months ago)

Unfortunately, we left before the karaoke started at 9:00 (Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays), but it was a great cap to the evening to hear the disc jockey warming the crowd up with Alabama’s “Down Home” BB’s also periodically features local country-western groups with live music.

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Buffalo Bill’s Saloon and Kissing Kate’s Cafe

The Beavercreek Saloon

21950 S Beavercreek Rd Beavercreek, OR 97004

Beerchasing in Idaho – Part II – Stanley and the Sawtooths

Posted on September 8, 2016 by Thebeerchaser

While those of us who live in Oregon are enamored with the beauty and variety of scenery in our state, a six-day summer road trip from Coeur d’aline to McCall and then to Stanley, Idaho convinced us that Idaho is not far behind.

And Thebeerchaser was pleased that Idaho has some excellent and colorful bars, taverns and brew pubs that warrant visits by those traveling in the state – it’s nickname is the Gem State more on that below……

Our initial stops in Coeur d’aline and McCall were documented in the last post dated 8/26/16 see the link: https://thebeerchaser.com/2016/08/26/beerchasing-in-idaho-part-i-and-the-dirty-shame-saloon-in-yaak-mt/

We followed the beautiful Payette River Scenic Byway much of the way from McCall to be greeted by the breathtaking Sawtooth Mountains surrounding Stanley.

The Stanley Post Office

Our two and one-half day stay at the Redfish Lake Lodge – six miles south of Stanley – was far too short. Stanley, with a robust year-round population of 63 according to the 2010 US Census (down from 100 in 2000) is still a bustling community that describes itself as “A Playground for All Seasons.”

Stanley has a colorful history as described in a Winter – 2010 Sun Valley Guide article entitled, “The Spirit of Stanley:”

“Every resident over 70 remembers by lore or memory when the main street offered gambling, fighting and dancing every night of the week in three clubs within 200 stumbling feet of each other.”

Outdoor enthusiasts in the spring and summer take advantage of hiking, kayaking climbing, cycling and boating. The fall and early winter months host hunters, cross-country skiers and snowmobilers – that is until the weather becomes “extreme” given what the year-round residents assert is the coldest location in the U.S. I wanted to see how much of this was true and some basic research revealed it is no exaggeration. Frosts can occur at any time of the year. There are on average 290 mornings in the year with frost (10 of them in July) and 60 nights that reach 0° centigrade. (Wikipedia)

According to a website https://www.currentresults.com/Weather-Extremes/US/coldest.php the statements are not puffery. For example, “On any single day, the mountain town of Stanley, Idaho is most often the coldest place in the states outside of Alaska.” From 1995 to 2005, it was the coldest place in the US outside of Alaska for 398 days – more than any other location.

As the young (25 years old), female Mayor, Hannah Stauts stated:

“Last winter (2009), it was 35 below for 39 hours…..Those without a wood stove or propane heat watched their toilets freeze and crack.” (“The Spirit of Stanley”)

The center of town…..

And if one stands at the corner of Wall Street and Ace of Diamonds, Stanley’s main intersection, you won’t observe stock brokers heading for skyscrapers, but a bunch of Suburus, pick-ups and jeeps parked in front of the several bars, restaurants and hotels which were all bustling when we were there.

I was enthused that Janet could join me on this return trip – the first visit was thirteen years ago on part of my sabbatical from the Schwabe Williamson & Wyatt law firm, when I took an unforgettable road trip through Eastern Oregon, Idaho and Montana. And thanks to Brian “Brain” King, one of my Schwabe colleagues, who urged me to spend time at the Stanley Rod and Gun Whitewater Saloon (SRAGWS) – one of the two dive bars that inspired me to start Thebeerchaser blog when I retired in 2011.

Brain King in his Idaho duds……

Brian, when he served as corporate counsel in Boise, spent time in Stanley and told me on my 2003 trip, “You need to stop at the Rod and Gun Club Saloon and say hello to the owner and notable musician, Casanova Jack,” And Jack did have a reputation throughout the west having at one time sung with Marty Robbins and his band. And the bar has a colorful history: “Tall Mary, at 6-foot-4, ran the Rod and Gun Club with Casanova Jack, and a French woman served whiskey and great hot sandwiches all night long at the Kasino Club.” (Winter 2010 Sun Valley Guide)

While visiting Stanley years ago, Brian even took the stage and was lead vocal on “Blue Suede Shoes” with Jack. Of course Brian’s perfect pitch on such country–western classics as “She was a Bootlegger’s Daughter and I Love Her Still,” or one that is a favorite of legal clients everywhere, “If the Phone Don’t Ring, You’ll Know it was Me,” made him a natural to accompany Jack on stage at the bar.

Brain and colleague, Cheryl Rath, drinking Tecate at Billy Rays

I’m sure that Casanova Jack did not care that Brian was a lawyer or that he would eventually co-author a scholarly environmental law book entitled Fundamentals of Environmental Management with stimulating chapters such as “Air Emission Inventory and Analysis” or “Ozone-Depleting Chemicals (ODCs).” (Environmental lawyers are not a real popular group in Idaho….)

No, notwithstanding his legal skills and erudition, Brain is a down-home – dive bar kind of guy. I found that out in our last Beerchasing journey when he was downing Tecate Beers in cans at Billy Ray’s Neighborhood Dive Bar in NE Portland. (See post dated 8/9/16 https://thebeerchaser.com/category/uncategorized/dive-bars/.

Brian would not reveal the details of how he was refused service in one Stanley bar when knowing the state nickname, he innocently asked the bartender to “Show me your gems…..”

Thebeerchaser at the entrance to the Rod and Gun

When I was first at the bar on Karaoke Night in 2003, I did ask if Casanova Jack was in and the manager told me that Jack had died in 1990. The bar is now owned by his brother, Johnny Ray and his wife of thirty-eight years, Eve, who was also bartending while we were there. Johnny Ray played the bass guitar and sang in Jack’s group and spent a good amount of time filling me in on his story and that of the bar.

Johnny Ray was born in Ogden and besides his musical and bartending career, was a truck driver for many years. Fortunately, we did not visit in 2015, because they closed the bar for a good part of the year, while Johnny Ray “got a personal 100,000 mile maintenance check.” He then quit cigarettes and also ended smoking at the bar – “I’m glad I made the decision rather than the government doing it for me.”

A new friend and talented bartender.....

Johnny Ray – A new friend and talented musician and bartender…..

The( SRGWS) has a long bar and large room with a stage for entertainers and karoke. Johnny Ray is known as “Idaho’s Singing Bartender” and puts on a headset with a microphone so he can harmonize with the entertainers while he is bartending.

While Janet and I listened to wonderful stories from Johnny Ray, a group of regulars that afternoon were sitting at one end of the bar talking with Eve and echoing similar disdain for the political establishment. They were discussing the inability to purchase 22 caliber shells because the government is secretly stockpiling them at an unknown location.

Instructions to one elected leader at the lower left….

The walls of the bar are filled with hundreds, if not thousands of one-dollar bills which patrons sign and are hung on the wall – I did one thirteen years ago and on this trip, stapled Thebeerchaser’s card onto another one which Johnny Ray promptly tacked to the wall. One in particular I noticed would make both Republicans and Democrats blush at least a little.

We came back the next morning after having breakfast at the legendary Stanley Baking Company and Café because I needed some additional pictures and the bar was closed.

The bar is closed, but…. come on in!

But after I knocked on the door, Johnny Ray, who was talking to one of his bartenders, let us in and chatted some more. He is a down-to-earth and colorful guy and Eve, is also a fine lady. If you visit Stanley drop in and say “hello,” with greetings from Thebeerchaser and look for my card on the wall.

We also dropped into the other bar in ‘downtown” Stanley – the Kasino Club, which was also a good looking and well-frequented bar with ample space for evening entertainment. We wanted to say “hello” to Mikey – the friend of McCall Brewing Company’s Edgar and Louis, who we had met a few days before. He is a bartender there, but both times we dropped by, he was not working.

Kasino Club – the second hot-spot in Stanley

I also wanted to see it because I had heard that former Beerchaser-of-the-Quarter, Jay Waldron on one of his rafting trips on the Salmon River ended up on the dance floor with no shirt and no shoes some years ago.

https://thebeerchaser.com/2016/03/29/jay-waldron-rugger-rafter-rider-and-lawyer-beerchaser-of-the-quarter/

Revelry at the Kasino Club

After he realized his fellow rafters had abandoned him, Jay experienced one of the 0 centigrade nights on his mile and one-half trek back to their motel. (He doesn’t remember why he ended shirtless and without footwear although it may have been because the bartender asked him to show her his gems….)

The lines for the Stanley Baking Company and Cafe always start before it’s 7:00 AM opening and as we do at most bars, cafés and diners when we are traveling, we sat at the bar or counter because it is a great way to meet people.

This was no exception as we started chatting with personable, Becky Cron, the co-owner with her husband Tim, who we also met and was cooking their outstanding pancakes and waffles.

Becky, talking with Janet about her Oregon roots..

Becky, as did another person we met whose story is below, has an Oregon connection. She was from Eugene and started skiing as a teenager at Sun Valley. In 1989, she decided to move to Idaho for the skiing and the outdoors and never returned.

She met her husband and they own the Bakery and are co-owners of the nearby Sawtooth Hotel – both very successful enterprises. The hotel was built in 1931 and they renovated and reopened it in 2010. In spite of how busy she was, Becky was very friendly and willing to chat with some visiting Oregonians.

Pancakes overflowing…..

And there was no question, the wait for their food was worth it.

The first evening in Stanley, we dined at the Redd Restaurant, a quaint diner – also with a small waiting line and Janet enjoyed a pasta dish while I downed a scrumptious bowl of lamb stew.

Redfish Lake Lodge

We stayed at the Lodge, built in 1929, for two nights, which had great rates and is in a beautiful setting. It’s essentially a log cabin, has a spacious and popular dining room and a small, but very interesting bar.

The next day, we took a boat ride to the end of Redfish Lake and went on a several mile hike along the ice-cold snow-fed streams running by the Lodge.

Jen – in full control of her bar.

———

We met another colorful and unforgettable Stanley full-time resident – Jen Hettum – she referred to herself as “Crazy Jen.” And Jen, a charismatic, attractive and competent bartender, had that bustling bar under her thumb – she joked and chided each of the customers in a friendly manner and they loved it. She was like a school-marm with a revolving classroom of hyperactive kids, who knew they better behave or Jen would rein them in.

Since the bar was so crowded the afternoon we first visited, I came back at 10:30 in the evening on a week night when the setting was more restrained and had a great chat when Jen after she poured me a Scotch and water. When I gave her Thebeerchaser card and told her we were on a road trip from Portland, she immediately related her Oregon connection.

Former Portland Rose Festival Princess – now a Stanley resident

“I was a Rose Festival Princess from Franklin high school. I came to work at the Lodge about twelve years ago and never left.”

She now has a ten-year old daughter and is active in Stanley civic affairs and takes her profession seriously. In fact, the next week, she was attending a five-day national convention of “mixologists” in New Orleans, (Tales of the Cocktail) to which Jeff, the manager of the Lodge, was paying her way.

The bar was a reflection of Jen’s magnetic personality and as I sat at the bar, I watched a guy who was with several friends come over and compliment Jen and then ask her to come to a party with him after she got off after midnight. “Ain’t going to happen, Sweetie, but I’m flattered you asked,” she responded and then went to the other end of the bar to serve another party.

Of course, Jen, Johnny Ray, Becky and Tim all knew each other and probably socialize in mid-winter when Stanley essentially shuts down because of the cold weather.

Idaho Rocky Mountain Ranch

To cap it off, we had an absolutely great dinner at the beautiful Idaho Rocky Mountain Ranch (IMRM) about fifteen miles south of Stanley. While waiting for dinner, we sat in rocking chairs on the expansive front porch with cocktails, admiring the beautiful mountains and forest.

We even got a bonus with a reading by Idaho author and Stanley native, John Rember, who read from his memoir, Traplines – Coming Home to Sawtooth Valley. Our server at dinner was one of the many wonderful young people hired at IRMR from all over the country. She was from Boston and was starting college at the University of Chicago in the fall.

Idaho author John Rember gives a reading

On my maiden trip to Stanley, I stayed at the Ranch and when I asked for directions to the SRAGWS, they replied, “We’re all going after dinner is done. It’s Karaoke Night, why don’t you come with us.” I told them that they didn’t want an old guy to bog them down and I would meet them there. When we later met, I bought the first round which loosened everybody up for a spirited talent night (even without Brian King…..)

The dining room

After lamenting the brevity of our stay in Stanley, we left early the next morning after picking up two of Stanley Baking’s scrumptious and thankfully oversized cinnamon rolls.

We made the 552 mile trip home from Stanley in eleven hours with great Idaho memories. Thanks, Becky, Tim, Johnny Ray, Eve and Jen. We hope you have a great winter and will see you on the next trip.

Farewell Stanley…!

Thebeerchaser

Bars, Breweries and Watering Holes – An Exploration

Tag Archives: Stanley Rod and Gun Whitewater Saloon